can we put an end to rotella t6? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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can we put an end to rotella t6?

I currently use rotella t6 in my 08 cbr600. I'm not meaning to start a war over this lol but the other day i was with my buddies and they started this whole debate about how rotella t6 isnt for our bikes. EVEN though its jasco certified, and that reading off forums of people saying its fine "doesnt matter". " turbo diesel synth oil isnt made for bikes..its made for diesels". I'm kind of tired of hearing 2 different sides. So anyone possibly have any factual proof that this oil is ok? Maybe its a cruiser thing, but they all like to flame me for it :D
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post #2 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 08:41 PM
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I personally haven't used it in my 600rr yet but have many years of use with it in my CRF 450R in both the engine side and the clutch/transmission. In fact the after market clutch I run (rekluse) recommends it.

I'm planning on running it in my 600 on the next oil change. Do a search on here and you'll see that some have many, many miles with no problems on the stuff.
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post #3 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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thats what I said. but nooooo, its still not made for our bikes. apparently it doesnt lube up the clutch as well as mobile or any other oil specifically for our bikes
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post #4 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 09:12 PM
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You'll never pry it from my cold, dead hands!

It's fine. It's not marketed as sexy stuff, but if you think about it... how good does oil need to be to go into long haul, million mile rigs? Pretty dang good. All the motorcycle specific oil is good too. I'd use any of it. A motorcycle will rot away, explode, be crashed, or otherwise become KIA long before oil becomes the weak link of a bike. And the difference between going 225,000 miles and 232,000 miles is too small to justify much expense over.

My hot oil tipz:

1. don't use the cheapest s you can find

2. don't use the second cheapest s you can find

3. don't use friction modifier oil or other weird stuff
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post #5 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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I'm all for t6 myself. and agreed. i just dont understand why I'd buy mobil synthetic at 11 a quart or a jug of t6 for 20 bucks. doesnt make sense ha
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post #6 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 11:54 PM
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295,000 miles, 11 trackdays, and running strong on the original clutch, that's the only proof I have that it's A-OK. Now I haven't run the T6 exclusively, but I did use it for quite some time without a single problem and it's still going strong to this day. Come to think of it, I haven't used a "motorcycle specific" oil in this bike since it had 5000 miles on it. So there ya go!

Yet people still argue with me that my oil is inferior and won't work in a bike

-Jared

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post #7 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 12:11 AM
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On my '03 the manual says either 10w-40 or 10w-30. So I use Silkolene Super 4 10w-40 which is $58/4L.

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post #8 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 08:14 AM
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post #9 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 08:53 AM
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apparently it doesnt lube up the clutch
That's exactly the point, you don't want it to.
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post #10 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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hah true that. or just close minded XD

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Originally Posted by thirdgenlxi View Post
295,000 miles, 11 trackdays, and running strong on the original clutch, that's the only proof I have that it's A-OK. Now I haven't run the T6 exclusively, but I did use it for quite some time without a single problem and it's still going strong to this day. Come to think of it, I haven't used a "motorcycle specific" oil in this bike since it had 5000 miles on it. So there ya go!

Yet people still argue with me that my oil is inferior and won't work in a bike
no ****? what other non specific bike oil were you using besides t6?
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post #11 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 06:31 PM
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I found out about Rotella T6 from CycleCruza on YouTube. Been using it for about 6 months and have 1,500 miles so far. Bike runs great.
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post #12 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 06:57 PM
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Proof you want?

Call the support number on the bottle or there website and ask them if it will work in a bike thats the best/only proof your gunna get.


They Will probably say something like. No we only recommend it for diesel vehicles

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post #13 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 07:19 PM
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No, T6 is bad for the 600RR and other motorcycle engines.

That's why you never hear anyone have issues with it for thousands of miles...
Myself I used Rotella exclusively for over 30k miles, and my RR ran like it was brand new the day I sold it.

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post #14 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 09:06 PM
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I tried Rotella on my Ninja... and still good so far after 5k of hard riding.

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post #15 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 09:35 PM
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I found out about Rotella T6 from CycleCruza on YouTube. Been using it for about 6 months and have 1,500 miles so far. Bike runs great.

Uhhhhhh you trolling me?
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post #16 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 11:36 PM
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hah true that. or just close minded XD


no ****? what other non specific bike oil were you using besides t6?
Just the regular old Mobil 1 10w-40.... 5 qt jug you get at wally world for about $25. And a WIX filter from O'Reileys.... though I've used several different filters over the years. OEM, K&N, Purolator PureOne for a long time, and now the WIX for quite awhile too. Changed every 5000 miles since the bike had 5000 miles on it. Just bought these tonight, need to change it here soon..... last oil change before 300k

It's even Turbo approved! LOL




And a little video I made just now (well a little bit ago, just took forever to upload) just so you can hear for yourself it runs damn near perfect (gotta tighten my CCT just a hair). And that is indeed 295k, just doesn't show the 2 cuz it's a 5 digit odo and resets to 00000 every time. If I had a GoPro right I'd make an actual riding video.... epic fail


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post #17 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-27-2015, 11:58 AM
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I use Crisco Canola oil in my race bike, and have done so for the last 6000 (race) kms. Bike runs great!


We're talking Hondas here boys, the bikes will run just fine on any oil.
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2007 blue/silver street bike.
Arrow headers / Akrapovic Ti slip-on / PC3 / BMC air filter / Tuned / 520 kit / Fender eliminator / Integrated tail light / Lightech rear sets / HIDs / LED Guage mod / Pazzo levers / etc etc

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Guess which one sees more ride time each summer?....
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post #18 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 10:36 AM
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I remember the first time I told someone about running that oil they went crazy on me.. I've been running Mobil 1 but I think I'm gonna change. I didn't see the JASO rating on the back like it used to have
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post #19 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 03:28 PM
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This oil thing is way, way, overthought. Diesel oil has a low ash additive, in other words it prevents carbon buildup more-so than conventional. Big rigs and the transit bus and tractors and Diesel engine in general runs hundreds of thousands of miles constantly and use this formula because of the intense mileage they put on.

Oil cushions, lubricates, cools, drives gears through pressure.

If you change your oil in a timely matter, you're doing your job.

I use Rotella in my high mileage truck and subaru too because why the hell not... It's affordable and it's ashless dispersant.



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post #20 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 07:49 PM
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I've checked out most Diesel oils here at Supercheap, and none of them are JASO MA or JASO MA2.

However, having a look at the Penrite site, they claim:

HPR DIESEL 15 is recommended for use in petrol, light duty diesel engines, LPG/Dual fuel & four stroke motorcycles including those with wet clutches. It is also suitable for use in petrol and LPG engines as a mixed fleet oil. It is NOT suitable for use in diesels fitted with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter).

However, it isn't JASO MA or MA2.

KEY SPECIFICATIONS:
API CI-4 PLUS/SL
ACEA A3/B4/E7
Ford M2C171-C/153-F/153-G
JASO DH-1
MB 228.3/229.3

So I have no idea what to think now. :s

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post #21 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 09:49 PM
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I use Crisco Canola oil in my race bike, and have done so for the last 6000 (race) kms. Bike runs great!


We're talking Hondas here boys, the bikes will run just fine on any oil.
lol
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post #22 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-30-2015, 10:42 PM
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Uhhhhhh you trolling me?
No I'm not trolling you! Why would you think that ?
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post #23 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 01:07 AM
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No I'm not trolling you! Why would you think that ?
Lol cyclecruza is perhaps the worst dangerously popular vlogger that riders shouldn't take advice from. But t6 is good stuff.

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post #24 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 07:33 AM
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Oil will forever be a debate as there is very little evidence anywhere of oil damaging something unless it was never changed or the intervals were 3 or 4 times longer than recommended, no matter what the vehicle was. People who state (other than Jared!!!) I've used X oil and it works fine aren't telling you anything unless they've had engines inspected for wear or MANY miles on it. I get a kick out of people with 5,000 miles on their bike telling someone that's all they've used, that should be one oil change on a bike not even fully broken in yet!!!

Also everyone and every shop thinks that one type, style, color, texture, flavor, etc. is better than another and will live and die by that no matter what. They only thing you need to be careful of are the friction modifying additives in your wet clutch and then only if it becomes an issue, generally it affects more on worn clutches and higher horsepower motors anyway. And simply changing back will restore its operation.

Use whatever you feel comfortable with and stop worrying and listening to you friends. I personally don't like T6 because it turns very black and feels very watery to me after a couple thousand miles and I don't like that. Note I didn't say it stops protecting, I'm simply saying how it feels while draining. I use a reasonably priced semi-synthetic oil I'm happy with and have over 100,000 miles on various bikes using it and am happy with that.

It's your call: Coke, Pepsi or store brand cola?

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post #25 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 07:29 PM
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Oil will forever be a debate as there is very little evidence anywhere of oil damaging something unless it was never changed or the intervals were 3 or 4 times longer than recommended, no matter what the vehicle was. People who state (other than Jared!!!) I've used X oil and it works fine aren't telling you anything unless they've had engines inspected for wear or MANY miles on it. I get a kick out of people with 5,000 miles on their bike telling someone that's all they've used, that should be one oil change on a bike not even fully broken in yet!!!

Also everyone and every shop thinks that one type, style, color, texture, flavor, etc. is better than another and will live and die by that no matter what. They only thing you need to be careful of are the friction modifying additives in your wet clutch and then only if it becomes an issue, generally it affects more on worn clutches and higher horsepower motors anyway. And simply changing back will restore its operation.

Use whatever you feel comfortable with and stop worrying and listening to you friends. I personally don't like T6 because it turns very black and feels very watery to me after a couple thousand miles and I don't like that. Note I didn't say it stops protecting, I'm simply saying how it feels while draining. I use a reasonably priced semi-synthetic oil I'm happy with and have over 100,000 miles on various bikes using it and am happy with that.

It's your call: Coke, Pepsi or store brand cola?

Mike

Oil analysis can tell a whole lot about internal engine condition and wear, and oil breakdown. We do this regularly as aircraft mechanics.


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post #26 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-01-2015, 07:51 PM
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Oil analysis can tell a whole lot about internal engine condition and wear, and oil breakdown. We do this regularly as aircraft mechanics.


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No doubt, but duty cycles on jet engines, motorcycle race engines, and motorcycle stock engines are way different. Unless something has gone drastically wrong, I bet it's next to impossible to infer breakdown rates in a stock motorcycle engine until it's near end-of-life in the hundreds of thousands of miles (as it relates to the impact, specifically, of oil used and how that oil has affected the materials)
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post #27 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 02:49 AM
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No doubt, but duty cycles on jet engines, motorcycle race engines, and motorcycle stock engines are way different. Unless something has gone drastically wrong, I bet it's next to impossible to infer breakdown rates in a stock motorcycle engine until it's near end-of-life in the hundreds of thousands of miles (as it relates to the impact, specifically, of oil used and how that oil has affected the materials)

Yes you're totally right!
Well aren't those are the two purposes of oil analysis? To monitor excessive specific metal wear of a given internal part pending failure, and check rate of breakdown of your oil at the given mileage?

I was planning on doing one on my CBR to see how the T6 holds up with my driving style at my oil change intervals.


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post #28 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 03:07 AM
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Well aren't those are the two purposes of oil analysis? To monitor excessive specific metal wear of a given internal part pending failure, and check rate of breakdown of your oil at the given mileage
Yes, but what I'm arguing is that the results are not conducive enough to stock engines to be useful in any tangible way - the motorcycle will be retired or crashed before the delta of which oil has been used reaches a great enough threshold to be considered worth paying attention to.

Oil analysis is for HO engines. Not street engines.
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post #29 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 03:30 AM
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Yes, but what I'm arguing is that the results are not conducive enough to stock engines to be useful in any tangible way - the motorcycle will be retired or crashed before the delta of which oil has been used reaches a great enough threshold to be considered worth paying attention to.

Oil analysis is for HO engines. Not street engines.

Not true, oil analysis is done on the smallest of aircraft engines consistently 100hp < 4 cylinders specifically for reliability purposes.

Again, they check breakdown of the oil as well, and you can determine a better oil change interval based on the type of oil you're using. Which would be useful here in what we're talking about here.




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post #30 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 03:34 AM
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Yes, but what I'm arguing is that the results are not conducive enough to stock engines to be useful in any tangible way - the motorcycle will be retired or crashed before the delta of which oil has been used reaches a great enough threshold to be considered worth paying attention to.

Oil analysis is for HO engines. Not street engines.

I understand what you're saying though, as in noticeable wear from the analysis doesn't happen quick enough to deem service worthy. Which is true unless something terribly wrong has happened.

I'm more concerned on the oil break down, and change interval however because we all know hondas run forever 😜


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