what sorta coin we looking at?

 

The Annitori RL sells at $279.95 complete, the only addition would be if you need a shift rod which sells at $20.

Many of the suppliers up on the forum can get these for you, or if you prefer you can call us and we will be happy to assist you directly with any questions or needs you might have.

Strain gauge quickshifters are the future, but the technology is new to many of you so there are probably questions out there. Let us know and we will be happy to assist...!

 

Member review up on the other side:

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=248019

Hope this helps answer some questions for everyone!

 

You can order from us

 

ok, newbie here... what exactly does this thing do for us?
It is called a quick shifter, so I am assuming it makes the shift quicker, but is that it, just faster?
What advantages does it offer over a bike that does not have one?

 

Is this plug 'n play?

 

Yes, 100% "Plug-n-Play". No cutting, splicing, hacking...

How easy?

Get to the top of your spark plugs. It is the hardest part for you CBR owners, because Honda makes this a bigger pain then it ever needed to be. But such is life, you have to yell at Honda...

(There is the alternative of going in from the radiator side, many customers just reach behind the radiator to the coil connectors, skipping the nightmare of going under the airbox)

Unplug the connectors from the plug top coils, plug in ours, plug the OEM into ours.

Attach the ground wire.

Attach the sensor to the shift rod.

Plug the sensor/contoller wire into the coil loom connector, and you are done.

Seriously, that easy.

If you can do a spark plug change on your bike, you can do this. Actually, changing the plugs is harder...

 

A more then fair question...

A good Quickshifter like the RL offers you faster shifts and smoother shifts, which is what you hear most about due to their being used heavily in racing. And if you consider that the reason you own a sportbike is for "performance", anything that adds to performance is part of any purchase consideration.

Think about when you first learned to ride; pull in clutch, move gear lever, let out clutch... Probably the better part of 3 minutes between each shift... (Just kidding!) Then you got quicker, making the movements much more fluent, and suddenly you're going faster.

Now consider the idea that with the RL you can get that shift time down to virtually nothing; the engineering minimum. If it saves 1/4 of a second on each shift (who knows, depends on how fast you are now!), that is 1 second going through the gearbox. How much HP do you have to pay for to get 1 sec off your accelleration time?

And it does it every time, every shift, always there.

BUT, although all of this is very real, it is only "part" of what we would consider to be the keys to why your would want to own one.

First, there is the huge value to removing one more "to do" off your list while riding. The more you can focus on your machine, the more you can focus on your line through the corner, the more you can focus on what's in front and around of you, the better you will ride. So if upshifting becomes nothing more then a quick and simple foot movement, you have just given yourself that little extra edge to be better somewhere else.

MOST importantly, high tech Quickshifters like the RL offer shifting that is so fast, and so smooth, that the bike's chassis is virtually unaffected by the gear change. And THAT is huge when riding anywhere, anytime, anyplace.

Imagine you are hiked over is a nice, long, sweeping corner. Halfway through you realize you have the wrong gear. Pull in the clutch to change gears and your line is thown out the window. First the weight pushes forward, overloading the front tire, then as you engage the next gear the weight kicks to the back and unloads the front end.

All of that is virtually gone. No more. Click the lever and go. As close to paddle shifting as you are going to get.

In fact, that is the point. Click the lever and go. Almost all the inherent "issues" of using a clutch to upshift are gone.

The BMW S1000RR is one of the highest performance and highest tech bikes on the market now. It comes from BMW with a Quickshifter option, bone stock. Why? Because quickshifters are NOT only about racing, they are about every moment of riding, every day, every shift.

One of your members just posted on another thread here on the forum, and like so many people who finally have a chance to use a high quality shifter like the RL, he doesn't know how he ever rode without one.

We think that just about says it all...

 

so this just interrupts power when you shift? it's not like an air shifter?

 

Very different then an air shifter...

Yes, the RL interupts the ignition coils and is based on the same technology used by MotoGP, Moto2, World Superbike, World Supersport, etc...

 

Another noob question, does it only work smoothly when you're accelerating quickly or will the RL work well even at slow shift speeds? I know it's pretty pointless to buy one if you're not going to be racing but just wondering if it would help smoothen out shifts at slower speeds such as while riding around local streets.

 

Quickshifters are a wonderful addition to any performance machine. So much so that now the BMW S1000RR, one of the TOP performance bikes in the World, one of the most expensive performance bikes out there, comes with a Quickshifter straight from BMW.

Why?

Because Quickshifters ARE a very useful and beneficial addition to riding. All riding, all the time, anytime you are looking for added performance to your situation.

Better acceleration, better handling, smoother lines, more time to focus on other parts of the riding situation. For the price of a rear tire you gain more performance then virtually any other addition out there.

And it adds that performance every time you shift.

But that said, it does not mean that a Quickshifter is not "less" useful in some situations.

Using a Quickshifter to shift from 1st to 2nd at 1800 rpm's on a modern, 15,000+ rpm 600cc sportbike is not exactly going to convince a rider of why they spent the money. Not that you can't do it, but honestly, you don't need to spend the money when pulling in the clutch works just fine in that situation.

But we suggest you should not expect a huge benefit from the product in those types of situations.

Putting $500 sticky "best ever" tires on your CBR to then ride from NY to San Francisco, never leaving straight up and down on I-80, is the same sort of example?

Let's use another example that might help explain: steering dampers. All of you have one, some of you went out and paid more then a Quickshifter to upgrade the stock one. But we seriously doubt you did so, or set your damper up, to "maximize" its capabilities at 6 mph...?

That does not make the product "bad", it just means the rider is not at that moment using the machine and the product in the manner they were designed/purchased to be used in.

Quick rule of thumb? If you are on the cams; on the power, then Quickshifters are wonderful additions to riding. But that does not mean "redline" or "racing". It means you are accelerating and the gearbox has torque on it. The more the better!

On a CBR1000RR that is earlier in the rpm's then the more "peaky" 600cc powercurves; just a fact of life and engine size. We don't think anyone is having their arms torn out at 4000rpm's on a 600cc sportbike? But most of you did not buy 600cc sportbikes to "short shift" (we hope!), so there are an awful lot of opportunities on every ride to benefit from the RL.

Maybe that helps the question?

Quickshifters are a FANTASTIC addition to any performance machine, when you are using the "performance" side of the equation. If not, a Quickshifter does nothing wrong and simply waits there for you to need its services again...

In the end, what we are trying to say is that a Quickshifter is a performance product, to be used on a performance machine, in performance situations. That does not mean race "only", because there is little difference between running through the gearbox to merge into traffic vs. down the front straight at Road America; or needing the next gear on a long sweeping corner on your favorite backroad...

Like the stock BMW S1000RR, it means anytime you are looking for better performance, no matter where you are riding.

Does this help answer the question a bit?

 

Ya that helps a lot. Thanks for the clarification! Will be saving up for one, hopefully I can convince my girlfriend to get it for me as a christmas present =P

 

I haven't yet received mine in the post, am waiting patiently

Quick question Steve, does the ground wire have to go to the ground on the battery or can it ground to the frame?

Cheers

T

 

Quick question Steve, does the ground wire have to go to the ground on the battery or can it ground to the frame?

Anywhere that is a ground. BUT, please be sure, as many bolts are insulated and are NOT ground locations. Test with a meter if you are not sure...

 

Why is it everytime i view this site my I WANT kicks in and a new product ends up on my xmas list? I need to rob a damn bank!

 

Just to clarify, can we choose to set the unit to either push or pull, or will the system cut ignition in both directions?

 

Yes, the RL will operate in either shift pattern, no need to worry. You can run a street pattern to the track, switch to GP for the day, and then go back to street pattern for the ride home... As often as you wish, anytime you want, no need to buy "one or the other"...

 

Thanks, but that's still unclear

I already knew that the strain gauge sensor works in both directions, and that the quickshifter can work in both gp or street pattern.

Let me rephrase my question...

I run GP shift with stock rearsets => when I upshift, the shift rod is PULLed.
I want the quickshifter to cut ignition when I upshift, but I do NOT want the quickshifter to cut ignition when I downshift, thus interfering with throttle blipping.
So I want the quickshifter to cut ignition when it detects movement in PULL direction, but I do NOT want the quickshifter to cut ignition when it detects movement in PUSH direction.

=> Question: is there a button or something on the quickshifter control unit that allows me to set the quickshifter to work in Pull and to NOT WORK in Push?

 

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

In short, no. The RL kills in both directions due to 1) the number of riders with slipper clutches and advanced racing setups that like to have the assist of the kill signal on downshift and 2) the technical reason that the few millisecond kill signal will have no effect on the downshift whether you are "blipping" the throttle or not.

Not sure how you are executing your downshift?

There is a "blip", then the change gear; so the "blip" and the gear change are individual actions which are very close to each other, but not interfering with either action. The kill signal is too short, and at the wrong time in a "blipping" situation to have any negative effect on the gearchange. There is even the possible added benefit of the kill signal helping with the gearchange in case your "blipping" is not perfect...

IF you still would prefer to have the ability to choose "up", "down" or "both" for personal reasons, then the HM PLUS is the product for you and we have those for sale as well.

Hope this help answer your question...?

 

Thanks for clarifying!

 

nice product, a stand alone QS, no need to buy a PC & IMC just to run a QS. time to save up for next year.

 

anyone happen to know the stock shift rod length?

 

What bike?

 

bummer i forgot to buy a different length shift rod ugh! so what length would i need for stock rear set on a 08 cbr600rr you can pm me if you want

 

We have it that you need a 165mm shift rod for use with the RL sensor...

http://www.annitorirl.com/producthome.php?make=1&model=89&year=13

...here is a link to how to measure in case it helps:

http://www.annitorirl.com/product_detail_2.php

Give us a call toll free at 1-888-963-1212 in a few hours, happy to help sort this for you.

Thanks!

 

i am looking at ordering one of these in the next few days, but i cant seem to find what shift rod length i need for my bike?? any one help?? thanks
DjD

 

Can I get a quote for 2007 and how to order?

 

pm on the way