This is logical thinking process and needs to be understood even before you touch single wire with multimeter. Most of time, 99.99% of issues is not bad parts but problem with fuses, connectors or wiring.
Most people waste tonne of time and money desperately swapping in brand-new perfectly-working parts to replace perfectly-working parts and nothing changes. That's because they haven't actually identified WHY their bike's not starting. Might as well replace all tyres and bodywork with brand-new stuff, will that get your bike to start? That may be extreme example, but easy to understand how replacing unrelated non-defective parts won't help.
Same thing with EFI system, every single part is independent and may not be related to your no-start problem at all. If you have no-spark issue, replacing fuel-pump assembly (fuel-pump, FPR, fuel-level sender, filter), fuel-hoses, fuel-injectors, fuel-rail, injector sub-harness won't make difference right? Similarly, if you've got fuel-problem, replacing spark-plugs, ignition-coils, ignition sub-harness, ECU, engine-stop relay, clutch, kickstand, neutral-switch won't help there either. Remember, there’s only ONE thing wrong…
1. Test and measure with multimeter. Unless you're Superman and can see electrons flowing in wires, there's absolutely ZERO way any human can just look at wires and determines its ability to conduct electricity. Luckily, we have instruments that can.
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Fastest, easiest and most inexpensive way to fix no-start condition is to test and measure with multimeter. I've fixed this no-start probkem close to 100 times for people by phone in total-darkness at night in remote parking lots with pouring rain! No-start problem is 5-minute fix with multimeter... or less in many, many cases...
2. Follow flow of electricity from source (battery). From top to downstream and trace to each sub-system measuring power at every junction that splits off along way. Then you'll find spot where power disappears and that location is where you may have corroded or unplugged connector, or broken wire. Top-down flow of power looks like this:
You want to find common-issue with as high upstream component as possible. Which is where problem starts. If you find no-power at fuel-pump, do you replace it? Same thing with no-power at fuel-pump relay, ECU, injectors, coils, purge-control valve, exhaust solenoid valve, check-connector, O2-sensor#1, O2-sensor#2, do you replace all of those??? Since ALL of those are controlled by engine-stop relay, maybe THAT'S actual problem! Single-part going bad is more likely instead of 10 of them going bad all at once right? But why is engine-stop relay not activating? That's where additional testing comes in.
So ... use critical-thinking and boolean-logic to understand troubleshooting process. DON'T start at bottom and start replacing endless list of parts, they're not problems. Start from top-down and measure along way.
battery 13v -> ignition-switch 13v -> 13v -> 13v -> 0v <-- ahAH!!! -> 0v -> 0v -> fuel-
pump/injectors/ECU/coils
Where power stops, shows problem is between that spot, and previous tested location that did have power. Most of time, it's corroded terminals in connectors or wiring. Honda specified very low-quality unsealed, uncoated terminals in their wiring...
Until you find actual problem, you cannot fix it! Makes sense? With that out of way, here's step-by-step guides to fixing no-start conditions:
'03-06 https://www.600rr.net/threads/diy-startup-fuel-pump-prime-troubleshooting-03-06.589929/
'07-13 https://www.600rr.net/threads/fuel-pump-prime-troubleshooting-07-13-w-dannoxyz.588322/post-8043654
Most people waste tonne of time and money desperately swapping in brand-new perfectly-working parts to replace perfectly-working parts and nothing changes. That's because they haven't actually identified WHY their bike's not starting. Might as well replace all tyres and bodywork with brand-new stuff, will that get your bike to start? That may be extreme example, but easy to understand how replacing unrelated non-defective parts won't help.
Same thing with EFI system, every single part is independent and may not be related to your no-start problem at all. If you have no-spark issue, replacing fuel-pump assembly (fuel-pump, FPR, fuel-level sender, filter), fuel-hoses, fuel-injectors, fuel-rail, injector sub-harness won't make difference right? Similarly, if you've got fuel-problem, replacing spark-plugs, ignition-coils, ignition sub-harness, ECU, engine-stop relay, clutch, kickstand, neutral-switch won't help there either. Remember, there’s only ONE thing wrong…
1. Test and measure with multimeter. Unless you're Superman and can see electrons flowing in wires, there's absolutely ZERO way any human can just look at wires and determines its ability to conduct electricity. Luckily, we have instruments that can.
Fastest, easiest and most inexpensive way to fix no-start condition is to test and measure with multimeter. I've fixed this no-start probkem close to 100 times for people by phone in total-darkness at night in remote parking lots with pouring rain! No-start problem is 5-minute fix with multimeter... or less in many, many cases...
- learn to use multimeter to measure voltage and resistance (ohms): How to Use a Multimeter - SparkFun Learn
- get basic $7 multimeter: 7-Function Digital Multimeter
2. Follow flow of electricity from source (battery). From top to downstream and trace to each sub-system measuring power at every junction that splits off along way. Then you'll find spot where power disappears and that location is where you may have corroded or unplugged connector, or broken wire. Top-down flow of power looks like this:
- BATTERY (start of everything and should be tested 1st)
- ignition-switch
- fuses
- start/stop switch
- engine-stop relay
- fan-relay, fuel-pump relay, ECU, injectors, coils, purge-control valve, exhaust solenoid valve, check-connector, O2-sensor#1, O2-sensor#2 are ALL powered by engine-stop relay!
- fuel-pump
You want to find common-issue with as high upstream component as possible. Which is where problem starts. If you find no-power at fuel-pump, do you replace it? Same thing with no-power at fuel-pump relay, ECU, injectors, coils, purge-control valve, exhaust solenoid valve, check-connector, O2-sensor#1, O2-sensor#2, do you replace all of those??? Since ALL of those are controlled by engine-stop relay, maybe THAT'S actual problem! Single-part going bad is more likely instead of 10 of them going bad all at once right? But why is engine-stop relay not activating? That's where additional testing comes in.
So ... use critical-thinking and boolean-logic to understand troubleshooting process. DON'T start at bottom and start replacing endless list of parts, they're not problems. Start from top-down and measure along way.
battery 13v -> ignition-switch 13v -> 13v -> 13v -> 0v <-- ahAH!!! -> 0v -> 0v -> fuel-
pump/injectors/ECU/coils
Where power stops, shows problem is between that spot, and previous tested location that did have power. Most of time, it's corroded terminals in connectors or wiring. Honda specified very low-quality unsealed, uncoated terminals in their wiring...
Until you find actual problem, you cannot fix it! Makes sense? With that out of way, here's step-by-step guides to fixing no-start conditions:
'03-06 https://www.600rr.net/threads/diy-startup-fuel-pump-prime-troubleshooting-03-06.589929/
'07-13 https://www.600rr.net/threads/fuel-pump-prime-troubleshooting-07-13-w-dannoxyz.588322/post-8043654
