Just to follow up on an old thread:
I finally got around to trying to fix the fork. I figured that the adjuster was stuck in the standard position since I never moved it. I rode the bike for about a thousand miles with no problems, except for lowsiding at NJMP in April.
We cracked it open and I got the cartridge completely out of the fork cap this time. Last time we did not do this. I could see how the preload adjuster worked. It was bottomed out in the full soft setting. It just required a little more torque than I was comfortable doing without seeing the exactly how the mechanism worked.
Unfortunately, when reassembling the fork cap to the damper tube, we broke the damper tube. This happened when tightening the lock nut under the fork cap after seating the damper tube. The damper tube is pretty fragile, being hollow. My buddy was able to make a phone call though and pull a cartridge assembly out of his a**. I'm not sure what bike it came from, but it looked identical to the damper tube that we broke.
It turns out that breaking the damper tube was serendipitous. The rod that goes into the damper tube broke off the rebound adjuster last time we worked on the fork. I mention it in the first post above. I never would have known it we hadn't had to get a new cartidge.
So we get it all back together and the preload adjuster does its thing. Unfortunately, as TKSD hinted at above, the rebound adjuster only gets 2 turns out of the fork that we were working on. I know what's wrong with it, but now have to take the fork apart one more time
I have the Clymer manual and looked through it briefly before working on the fork, but it didn't say anything about the rebound adjuster screw. Today, I read the procedure for the 2003 section and of course it mentions it, just not in the 2005 section.