Im close to cutting up my whole harness and rewiring it or buying a new harness

Why would you do something so drastic?

Have you taken the plastics off so you can inspect the PIN connectors and the wiring harness?

Have you checked your resting battery voltage with a multimeter? Had the battery load tested? Cleaned the battery terminals and the main ground bolted to the frame (L) side?

 

Ive replace the battery, cleaned the wiring connectors from the kill switch to the harness, ive tried chasing the problem from one side to the other, when i got the bike it didn’t run because the previous owner went on a ride and the the fuel pump would no longer prime again, this harness already has alot of shotty work done to it with a aftermarket taillight and blinkers, the bike is also from New Jersey and im in California

 

Ive also taken off the main ground bolt and sanded and cleaned the area to see if that would effect anything, could my fuse block just have gone bad?

 

Doubtful. Have you tried restoring the wiring harness by removing all of the aftermarket wiring? Buying a used harness is a gamble in itself. You may get a better one. Or you may get a worse one. There's no way to know until you check each wire. So you might as well do that to the wiring harness you have.

Do you have a service manual or wiring diagram?

Dannoxyz has a great troubleshooting writeup that can help you find the problem.

https://www.600rr.net/threads/diy-no-start-troubleshooting-logic-includes-no-pump-prime-no-spark.590544/#post-8053064

 

Can only buy brand-new factory OEM harness from authorised Honda dealer. Otherwise anything else you get will be used and needs just as much fixing as yours… or worse! There is only ONE thing wrong, corroded or broken connector or wire. You MUST find error before trying to fix, otherwise you’re going to introduce additional errors into system and make things worse.

Headlights, dash and taillight don’t go through kill-switch (that’s only EFI system). So you’ve been troubleshooting completely wrong circuit. Before embarking on this journey, draw map to trace flow of electricity from beginning to end:

• battery volts = ???, this is standard control measurement that everything else will be compared to
• +pos battery cable, in one end, out other
• starter-solenoid 4-wire plug
• red wire, in one end, out other
• ignition switch, post photo of underside of switch
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• etc.
• headlight bulb socket, volts = ???
• headlight bulb, volts = ???

Fill in every missing piece in between. Once you’ve plotted your map, I’ll show you how to navigate it to find and fix exact problem. This is 5 minute repair.

Also post photos of all these locations. Any non-factory work will need to be restored back to factory OEM wiring specs. DO NOT attempt any kind of wiring repair unless you can follow this manual and do this quality of work. Otherwise, things can get worse.

NASA-STD-8739.4A_chg4.pdf

Credit: http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tools.html

Start of most problems is Honda specifies low-end wiring components such as bare-brass terminals in unsealed connectors and relays that corrode over time. Especially bad in NE weather with salted roads. So if you meet just minimum OEM level quality of work, be prepared to repeat this repair in 10–15yrs.

Best to improve on Honda’s low specs and upgrade component specs whenever you repair wiring. Use tin-coated terminals and marine/mil-spec silicone-insulated tinned fine-stranded wiring. Now you’ve got wiring that’ll last 50yrs.

Also repair rear taillight and winker wiring. Undo hack job and restore proper Sumitomo HC050 female & male connectors on harness and lights.

DIY - connect 2-wire aftermarket winker-lights to 3-wire...

DO NOT hack up factory harness to connect incompatible turn-signal lights!!! No hillbilly hacking of wires, twisting them together and covering with electrical tape!!! Instead, convert generic aftermarket lights to use correct Sumitomo connectors like original lights. Do it properly with...

www.600rr.net

BTW, how did you fix fuel-pump relay? What colour wire connected where? Does it prime properly for 3-sec. or does it run fulltime?

 

Check the ground connections, the ones you're looking for are all seated in a yellow box, which lives on the left side of the bike just underneath the fairing that hugs the saddle (that vulcanized plastic one).

Had a similar thing - my fuel pump wasn't priming, cranking but no start, headlights were flickering (not bright, sometimes would go out). Turns out that yellow box had melted and ground connections were not making contact properly.

Just cleaned it up and everything worked great!