The oil quantity in the 05-06 rr is 2,6 Liters without changing the oil filter and 2,9 Liters if you change it. It's even more if you dismantle the engine but i'm guessing you didn't do that...
I recommend you change oilfilters every time as they're cheap, and put 2.9L in, let it run for about 5 minutes turn it off and check the oil level while the bike is upright. Put more oil if needed (check the level on the glass window on the right hand side of the engine)

PS Oil bottles have a measuring bar on their sides so you know how much you put in.

 

to answer the question: 3 Qts on all years.

 

3 qts or 3 litres will work fine. it's ok to be .1 over the upper line. it's not gonna do anything bad. rule of thumb : 3 bottles.

 

yup. .1 over or .1 under is not a big deal. it's so minuscule, i would be surprised if you're not also worried about the fly stuck in your radiator.

 

cool. Thanks for the responses guys. I think i'll change my oil with either the motul 300v or 7100 as its readily available at my stealership. The 300v is 11.96 a quart and the 7100 stuff is like 8 or 9 bucks. Now all I do is freeway commuting about 50 miles a day and almost never deal with traffic as I work graveyard hours. Which would you guys run? And would it be safe to get 3000 miles on both oils before it turns to doodoo?

 

we've got no data on how well the Motol brands hold up. if it's anything like amsoil, then it should last optimally 5000 miles or better. but i don't know how you ride or the condition of your engine, so it might last 5000, it might last 2000... hard to say.

 

if it helps at all. I can't wheelie or stoppie. Never redline or do burnouts. Usually cruise at 75 on the highway. I do like to lean the bike over on on and off ramps. Bought the bike with 6000 miles. Did a oil change with mobil 1 4t immediately. Changed the oil every 2000 miles with the mobil 1. At 13000 miles, I decided to give the Castrol RS R4 a whirl. Now, I'm currently 500 miles away from 15000 miles. I've replaced the air filter, flushed the radiator and brake fluid. I try to take care of my bike as much as I can. I mean, I must ride like a pansy because I've got 8000+ miles on the dunlop qualifiers and there is still lots of life in the tires. Although they are starting to square off from all the highway miles.

 

but you do rev the motor high some times. not redline, but higher than 8000, or you accelerate hard for short periods of time.

do let the bike idle to warm up before you start out?

 

i never redline when I'm stopped. The only time I go past 8000 rpms is if I'm going 80+ mph on the freeway. And when I say 80+, I don't go past 85. I have gone 100+ three times for like 3 seconds. Fastest I've gone was 130 for like 2 seconds and immediately let off the throttle. I do like to accelerate but nothing like a racer. I don't redline through the gears. I never really go past 8000 rpms when I am accelerating, because I always slow down once I hit 60mph. I'm very easy on my bike. I don't speed as I don't want a ticket to ruin my driving record. And don't want to pay a ticket and I can't afford. And I always warm the bike up to 100 degrees before I ride. Or atleast when it shows a reading, which is always 97.

 

don't idle the bike if you can help it. excessive idling DOES place fuel in your oil. just start and go, but take it easy on the throttle until you get the oil (not to be mistaken with coolant or Engine temp, they are not the same) well warmed before you use the throttle for some heavy acceleration.

"easy does it for the first few miles" is the general guideline to follow.

 

holy crap. I always thought it was a good thing to warm up anything with an engine. Thanks for the tip KS. You think I've damaged anything by always letting it idle to 97 degrees?

 

probably not. fuel usually vaporizes off once the oil starts to heat up, and thanks to the crank case vent it is sucked up the intake tract and burned up. The trouble is, getting the oil warm enough during your commute to make this happen. many commuters don't realize that short stints on the bike often is not enough to warm the oil and burn off gasoline in the oil. over time this can add up and the oil can break down or loose it's viscosity rapidly causing premature wear. it's tough to balance.

By using a start and go method, the fuel is usually better corrected for riding conditions and is not riched out to maintain a low idle. as a matter of fact, many motorcycle engines are lean when in use to a certain point. So a good habit to have is to start it and go, and easy does it for the first 10-20 minutes of your ride. this will keep internal forces to a minimum, which reduces wear on metal and the oil, and keeps the fuel burning lean and clean.

 

no ^ , i also let my bike idle and warm up to 100-120 degrees, as a honda tech told me to do so. sometimes, i will hold the throttle at 2-3000 rpms while it's still in neutral to warm it up more quickly. the honda tech had just gotten back from honda headquarters and he told me that they trained him that bikes should be warmed up to 120 degrees before going over 3000 rpm. it's not only for oil circulation, but also to get the metal at the right temp. i always warm my motorcycle up, and upon oil analysis had only trace amounts of fuel in my oil.... for my car- i do as KS says- just go and take it easy for the first few miles. for the bike i prefer to get the oil and metal up to temp and the oil circulated through the tranny nicely as well before i throw a leg over it.

 

no ^ , i also let my bike idle and warm up to 100-120 degrees, as a honda tech told me to do so. sometimes, i will hold the throttle at 2-3000 rpms while it's still in neutral to warm it up more quickly. the honda tech had just gotten back from honda headquarters and he told me that they trained him that bikes should be warmed up to 120 degrees before going over 3000 rpm. it's not only for oil circulation, but also to get the metal at the right temp. i always warm my motorcycle up, and upon oil analysis had only trace amounts of fuel in my oil.... for my car- i do as KS says- just go and take it easy for the first few miles. for the bike i prefer to get the oil and metal up to temp and the oil circulated through the tranny nicely as well before i throw a leg over it.

Hmm?? I also let my bike warm up every morning before work to about 120deg before taking off, is this bad? Whats the right answer here?

 

You're like Yoda and I'm Baby Skywalker dude. I guess it's easy all the way since my job is a 20 minute commute.

 

uHhh ohhh. Contradiction? Now Confused I am.

 

^^ my drain interval prescription for you would be 5000-7000 miles on 300V ^^^

 

Sweet. That double ester stuff sounds fancy. You think I could push the motul 7100 oil to 5K? It's 100% synth Single ester.

 

my guess would be yes on 7100 for 5000 miles. but of course, analysis is the only true way to gauge what your intervals should be. since they call it 7100, 5000 should be totally fine, especially for the "average" riding that you do. motorcycles should always be warmed up, that's my opinion. cars are a whole different animal.

 

Damn it. I was hoping one would be a more obvious choice than the other. That way, it would be an easy choice of which oil to get. Guess I gotta read around and see what others have to say.

 

yea, go and do your own research and talk to more people. high fives on keeping up with your maintenance, good man. i'm sick of all these people starting threads asking "i've put 20,000 miles on my bike and i never did any maintenace, do you think I should do some?"

 

I've done all maintenance myself and I can thank this site for it.

 

damn what part of sac you in? im located in roseville. let me know if ya need anything

 

contact honda headquarters if you doubt my statement. keep doing what you're doing is what i say obviously.