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Brake lever over pressurized

1.5K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  theriot.callin  
#1 ·
So I have been having issues with my front brakes locking up on me. I have changed out pads, calipers, levers, master cylinder and inners, and fluidx3. The only things I haven't changed are my front brake lines and rotors.

So what happens is when I use my front brakes after a fresh bleed it last for about 2 weeks until the lever starts getting too hard to pull (over pressurized) and then my front brakes lock up completely until I bleed them a little and then they are good again for another two weeks and then it starts all over again. **I have noticed that on days that its hotter than 70 degrees it feels more pressurized than on days where it is 65 and below. I don't know if that helps or not.

I have bled the brakes until no bubbles were in the fluid, but still it keeps sticking.
 
#3 · (Edited)
The physical properties of brake fluid prevent it from expanding under heat or compressing under pressure. When you open your reservoir cap do you hear a hissing sound or does fluid shoot out? Same with the upper bleed screw and lower bleed screws. When you do the lower you will get some fluid seep out from the weight of the fluid in the system, but it shouldn't shoot out until you depress the lever.

However, air and moisture WILL expand/compress and cause brake problems. There isn't enough volumetric surface area for air or moisture to expand enough to cause the pistons in your calipers to move though, this is a safeguard designed into the system. If there is air/moisture in your system you will get a squishy feeling, not a hard feeling.

That said, your problem is most likely mechanical and not hydraulic. You need to inspect your Master Cylinder, Lever contact point, and calipers. Brake failures are serious and the full rebuild of the brake system is extremely cheap.

It sounds like maybe the contact point between the lever and the MC aren't lined up right, or perhaps theres debris in the system locking up the plungers. I highly recommend rebuilding your Master Cylinder and Calipers. The whole process is super easy. Use an Air Compressor to extract the cylinders from the calipers, just make sure you have them facing down on a soft wooden surface and use a low pressure nozzle/setting.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Oh, I got that. But by the looks of it he just started replacing things without inspecting the system and identifying the problem. I mean, if he had identified the problem he wouldn't be posting here in the way he did.

If he rebuilt the MC and his brake lines have been corroding and throwing debris it wouldn't fix the problem. You need to inspect the system to see that kind of issue.

Same thing, if his lines were corroding and he hasn't disassembled his calipers he'll never know what's going on down there either. There's also no history on the calipers in his post. If they sat for an extended period it's plausible that they are seizing. The action of bleeding the brakes allows the pistons to recede, but could be getting stuck further down in the socket.

I'm a firm believer in diagnostics before repair/replace. Very few components cannot be directly diagnosed before replacement. Like the ECU, that requires a process of elimination.
 
#7 ·
It's the hoses. One reason I say that is because if it's only down to the lines and the rotors... How could a rotor cause the brake to lock on?

But more so because when a hose fails, it can fail internally. You can end up with a little "flap" of material on the inner wall of the hose, which acts like a one way valve allowing fluid and pressure down to the caliper, but not allowing it to flow back.

My friends car had this fault, this was the result;
 

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#8 ·
Sorry guys I guess I left out a lot of information from the looks of it. Before I changed out the calipers I found out that they were seized up and I had already ordered the new ones before I took the old ones apart. Therefore I just put the new ones on. I do have after market levers but the point where the lever and the master cylinder rod meets is fine. Before I changed out the master cylinder when I would squeeze the lever it was like you said earlier the rod would cock to the left. When I took the master cylinder a part there was corrosion between the rod and the hole it sits in the rubber washers were cracked and the inner spring was rusted. When I first started bleeding my brakes there was debris in the lines that was coming out but after about three times of me bleeding the lines it came clean with no more debris. Do you still think that it could be the brake lines? Lately the bike has been shaking while I'm riding it so I though there was drag between my brakes and rotors but when I stopped after a 45 min ride my rotors were cold so I don't think there was drag on them.
 
#10 ·
the reason i asked about aftermarket levers wasn't because of the plunger being off center, it's that some levers have the wrong geometry (they claim to fit many bikes, and will bolt on, but cause issues on some)

if the plunger is even only slightly depressed, it will close the system. if you have a lever that is lightly pressing on the plunger when at rest it can cause this issue.


try a stock lever as well.
 
#13 ·
the reason i asked about aftermarket levers wasn't because of the plunger being off center, it's that some levers have the wrong geometry (they claim to fit many bikes, and will bolt on, but cause issues on some)

if the plunger is even only slightly depressed, it will close the system. if you have a lever that is lightly pressing on the plunger when at rest it can cause this issue.


try a stock lever as well.
It started the over pressurization with the stock levers that is why I have changed the levers.
 
#11 ·
The reason i asked about aftermarket levers wasn't because of the plunger being off center, it's that some levers have the wrong geometry
This! What wibbly said.

When I first started bleeding my brakes there was debris in the lines that was coming out but after about three times of me bleeding the lines it came clean with no more debris. Do you still think that it could be the brake lines?
And yes, you absolutely need to change your lines. If your lines were throwing debris it means they're rotting. That problem doesn't just stop when you clean them out. You can't reverse the rotting of rubber components. You must replace.
And because of that, to be prudent, I highly recommend flushing your entire system out again to be sure that there's nothing else in there, MC to your calipers.
 
#12 ·
And yes, you absolutely need to change your lines. If your lines were throwing debris it means they're rotting. That problem doesn't just stop when you clean them out. You can't reverse the rotting of rubber components. You must replace.
And because of that, to be prudent, I highly recommend flushing your entire system out again to be sure that there's nothing else in there, MC to your calipers.[/QUOTE]

Thanks again for all the input. I will try changing the brake lines checking the levers and making sure I don't over fill the reservoir.