Hmmm, you're saying that the fork ends are very tight when trying to fit assembled wheel in place and the calipers don't settle right?
But, fork tubes are straight?
Once mounted, does wheel spin normally?
Please, send pic's if you can.

 

Did you try to mount the spare wheel you had,even tireless?
If that is tight too you know to look at the rest of the front end.

 

This is a situation where a few pics are worth a thousand words. If the forks are straight something is clearly installed wrong.

 

calipers are mounted incorrectly or the bottom of the fork is turned the wrong way.....assuming your forks are "not bent". or the wheel spacers arent sitting flush inside the bearing.

but yes a picture from the front of the bike and both sides will help us out here ALOT

 

Try installing the front axle without the tire and see if it spins freely in both forks. Your forks may need to be aligned in the triple tree. Loosen one fork until the axle spins freely. Make sure it's greased. Then try to reinstall the rim/tire.

 

Will try getting around to this tomorrow and reply with results.

 

So I got around to doing what you recommended sort of. I did this with the axle only and it wouldn’t get through the furthermore fork, it wasn’t until I tried putting it on with the wheel I realized the front stand was hitting the edge of the axle preventing it from going through all the way, so I spun the axle with the rim on it, no brakes, wheel spins freely forever in forks. Tried loosening the triple tree (bottom and top) before I put the wheel back on and tightened them up before adding the wheel. Got the wheel in with the same amount of force and fighting with the forks as usual. (I’ve found that I can use a flathead to pry the forks away from the rim enough to get past the spacers.) Once the spacers are inside the forks the axle lines up with the forks and yada yada, I felt like I didn’t accomplish much, I did take pictures along the way and those are posted here. The brake calipers do not sit evenly on the rotors. Left side, under the throttle, the outside brake pad was pushed all the way in, not able to see the pistons with its other pads extended out much further. The right side of the bike under the clutch lever, the brake pads weren’t as uneven, but still uneven enough to be not correct.

As you can see in the first picture, this was the "not as bad" brake caliper, you can see all 4 pistons. (didnt get a picture of the worse brake caliper, but the pistons closest to the mounting bolts; outside of bike, were not visible as the pads were flush with the caliper, causes rotor to slightly rub the caliper)

2nd picture shows how tight the forks hug the wheel WITHOUT the spacers (WITH spacers life is all hell.)

3rd & 4th picture show the rim without and with spacer.

Bike is now reassembled as it is my daily as of right now, ,let me know what else you need pictures of. please and thank you!

 

Jeez, everything looks ok, shouldn't be a struggle to mount wheel.....
What's part # of wheel?

 

I am not 100% that this is the part number but this is what is stamped on the Spoke of the rim,
J 17M/CXMT3.50 DOT

 

If fork tubes are straight.

If tubes are mounted correctly at steering yoke.

Then wheel is wrong width?

IDK, maybe wheel swapped for a similar design but different width hub?

FWIW, the 03-6 models had asymetric (sp?) spacers.....using 07+ spacers on an earlier wheel would result in brake pads being offset.

That's all I got.

Keep posting!

 

Maybe the wheel bearings were swapped out ( wrong size bearings ? ) or with the wrong spacer between them / the bearings not seated fully. Is the center spacer tight up against the bearings?
Can you get a good measurement through the wheel axle hole with the spacers in place ( as ready to fit ) and hopefully someone can compare or check what it should be. I have a '06 so can't help there, but maybe there is a spec for it written down somewhere? .
A measurement between the center of discs would also help to confirm the correct wheel.

 

Maybe the wheel bearings were swapped out ( wrong size bearings ? ) or with the wrong spacer between them / the bearings not seated fully. Is the center spacer tight up against the bearings?
Can you get a good measurement through the wheel axle hole with the spacers in place ( as ready to fit ) and hopefully someone can compare or check what it should be. I have a '06 so can't help there, but maybe there is a spec for it written down somewhere? .
A measurement between the inside of discs would also help to confirm the correct wheel.

I have an exact replica of the rim sitting outside with the bike. I have tried swapping the rim the bike has on it, with that new rim that I know came off a 2008 600rr spec, however I had the same issue. I will try pulling old bearings out of the spare rim and replacing them with new bearings, and will measure the inside as well tomorrow. I have a bearing puller kit from Amazon (Bicos bearing install and puller) however i have no idea how to use it so I’ll have to figure that out tomorrow.

 

The best way to change the bearings is with a long drift/ flat screwdriver tapping them out from the other side, the center spacer will move over enough to get at the edge of the bearing . Top, bottom ,side ,side and ease them out.Support the wheel on timber to protect the discs.
To replace them start tapping in ( I also pop the new bearings in the freezer for an hour before hand ), top bottom side side again , then when flush use a socket large enough to sit on the outer edge only, never tap the inner run on the new bearing. You can tell when seated due to the change of noise from the tap.Start fitting with the right hand one ( as viewed from the riders seat ) then the spacer then the left. The left bearing should seat against the spacer and not necessarily all the way against the recess in the wheel as the right hand one. Check with a finger down the bearing against the center spacer, stop when it touches. Easy goes, no whaling on it..and don't forget the center spacer and new seals

 

This advice is critical! I learnt the hard way that the 2nd bearing only needs to kiss the internal spacer.

 

If anyone here has the same generation bike / knows the specifications, I’m wondering what the distance between the two forks is at the bottom; the distance between the axle holes. That would be extremely helpful in telling me if the forks are the issue or not.

 

You can't align your forks with a fork tube stand. The weight of the bike is always on the fork tubes. You need a triple tree stand or a floor jack on the exhaust headers, not the oil pan. Once you get the weight off the forks then you can loosen one fork and align the axle correctly. Where are your forks in the top clamp? Post a picture. Then double check you have the correct spacers as Ronayers.com shows them as being the same on both sides. The calipers need to be cleaned as the pistons are dirty/pitted and may need to be rebuilt if they still don't align with the rotors.

 

Ehhhh not necessarily. I never have an issue with my fork stand and gettin the wheel back on. Something is incorrect on this guys bike. The wheel or the rotor or the forks. Or some oddball calipers lol

 

You have a different thread stating you had a 1000rr wheel installed and had to replace it. That's very uncommon so it begs the question if there's other modifications on the bike, and, now that you bought a new wheel there's additional questions.



A few things:

1) Front CBR600RR wheels are interchangeable, BUT, the 03-06 and 07+ need the appropriate spacer set (see below.)



2) Sellers get it wrong all the time. Honda has made different CBRs and 600s and sometimes they're conflated by sellers.



3) Different CBR years and CCs as well as other Japanese bikes have used Tokiko calipers + 41mm forks. Can you take pics of the adjusters in the fork cap and fork leg to help rule out which forks are installed?



Note the combo of internal and external spacers for each year range. I wouldn't be surprised if the axle length is also different between 03-06 600rr and 07+ 600rr, and the possibility you have a 1000rr axle.

03-06 Wheel

07+ Wheel

 

Attempting to rule this out, the axle wouldn't be a factor if the problem persists before the axle is in the equation. AKA If im trying to mount the wheel between the forks and the forks are too close, the axle isn't even in yet ruling it not the issue right?

Spacers I have already ruled out as I do have two of the same spacers

 

GOT SOME DIGGIN TO DO!

 

he might be saying you possibly have different forks on the bike, and not correct for the wheel you are trying to put on?

 

This could be possible. I'm not sure how to determine if the forks on the bike are correct though

 

Sure looks like a 07 600rr fork. Looks similar to 08 1000rr but the 600 is 41mm and 1000 is 43mm if memory serves.

So to be clear; the shop used a head stand or did they use a fork stand also? If there's not enough space to slip the wheel in and out with a head stand then you may have bent outer tubes.

 

Shop used head stand. My bike is 2008 600rr, meaning 2007 forks should be the same part. I found a 2009 cbr600rr front rim on marketplace, from the measurements the seller gave me, everything should line up onto my bike. If anyone knows that the 600rr from 2009 is incompatible please let me know before this weekend.

However, if the fork outer tubes are bent i might be adding more money into the drain for nothing.

Is there a way to be sure of outer tubes being the issue, realistically it would be such a fractional difference that it would be impossible to eyeball i'd assume.

 

The front wheel 05 to present are all compatible. In fact I have 2013 wheels on my 08.

With the forks off the bike it's easy to check with a straight edge if the tubes are bent. You can also loosen the bolts in the triple and clip on enough that you can rotate one fork in place at a time and measure if the distance changes between the bottom of each outer tube. This would require a head stand or setting the bike on the header.

It's almost less work to completely remove the forks at that point though as long as you know how to set the fork height and torque the triple and clip bolts properly.

 

It might be silly suggestion but I couldn't put wheel with calipers mounted. If you rebuilt them you should be able to slide pistons fully in but not sure if it is enough

 

what!!!! wrong thread haha.. NO you cannot, Wheel goes on first then you mount calipers...... and for removal process, calipers come off first then wheel. if you rebuilt calipers correctly, yes the pistons should push back like butter, with no leaks

 

I got the wheel off, took the rotors off, tried to remount the wheel. With spacers it’s practically impossible to mount it as the spacers will he blocked by the bottom of the fork. Next course of action? Removing the forks, what would that tell me, and what should I do / check with them

as mentioned from above...
removing the forks from the triple tree will allow you to see if its bent or bowed. basically once u have them off, fully extend the fork and use a straight edge and make sure the inner tube is flat, heck if its really bad you might even catch it with your eyes alone.

With the forks off the bike it's easy to check with a straight edge if the tubes are bent. You can also loosen the bolts in the triple and clip on enough that you can rotate one fork in place at a time and measure if the distance changes between the bottom of each outer tube. This would require a head stand or setting the bike on the header..

 

I just mounted my forks so I took some photos with measurements. Metric units

 

If you look right above your post, someone took pictures with the tape measure. I believe he has 13 cm from rotor to rotor which is about 5.2 inches I believe.

 

Replaced with OEM brake rotors. Issue still persists. If the inner tube of the fork isn't smooth, would they leak at all or no? My forks have no leak at all on either even after being beaten on, couldn't notice any gauges even using a flashlight behind the fork and rolling it. Would rather not replace the fork components if im not 100% sure thats the problem as they are quite expensive from what i've seen.

EDIT: Im wondering if its possible that I have the wrong axle, and the axle doesnt pull the front together causing the forks to be further out than they should, making the rotors grind?

As said prior, and seen. My axle does not sit completely flush with the outside of the fork.

 

Dam this frankenstein Bike!!!!! Im sorry this is happpening

 

What is your measurement from inside of fork to fork like the guys photo above?

 

With the wheel mounted on the bike inside of fork to fork is 6.5inches.

 

Did some toying around with the bike.. found out the axle DOES sit flush in between the forks but only without the wheel on. Not sure why, i know the axle head (the bigger wider part) pushes against the spacer on the side you place the axle into, not sure how to get the axle to fit all the way through flush though.

couldnt get it flush even after beating it to death with a hammer !

 

Is your wheel bearings fitted correctly with the spacer in place? Maybe the bearings are the wrong thickness.

I believe 600RR front wheel bearings are 6004. Check yours and confirm.