Welcome to the net!

I'm impressed by your ingenuity to not give up until you had a workable solution. How did you even get this back in the tank? I replaced mine a few years back and found out the same thing. The actual filter is not serviceable or replaceable. Luckily for me my filter was still good enough, for now.

Did you get any kind of history with this bike? There's a lot to do if the previous owner(s) neglected anything. The clogged up strainer leading to the fuel pump failure is a common problem with these bikes. What else do yo have planned?

 

Thanks 🙏 lol... I was pretty determined NOT to have to spend 1/3 of what I paid for the entire motorcycle on a whole new fuel pump assembly, just to get that stupid <$5 plastic filter housing, lol.

Getting it back in the tank wasnt too bad... it took an extra 5 minutes of finagling, but it's rubber & flexy 👍

I didn't get much history with it... the dude was a firefighter and IMO he was kind of a "Chad" and said he always had Honda service it...

He also said the valve adjustment was recently done, but didn't provide receipts...

Let's just say based on his answer to my questioning the fact that it had obviously been down... that he wasn't an honest or trustworthy human being....

But whatever, I like wrenching on my own **** & got it cheap... plus he delivered it to my house... with a jacket & helmet 👌

I noticed it has a brand new air filter so someone had been in there recently...

I had to replace both footpeg brackets were snapped off & the battery was like DEAD dead.

I also re-splice (soldered) one of the aftermarket flushmount turn signals back in...

and the turn signal button was pretty sticky but wd-40 fixed that RIGHT UP! lol.

I haven't changed the fluids yet but what do you guys use for oil, coolant & brake fluid?
Do you all stick with name brand Honda stuff?
Or whatever the local auto parts store has?

Speaking of parts... lol I actually walked into a cycle gear thinking it was like an auto parts store for motorcycles 😆🤦‍♂️ where do you guys get your parts locally? Or do you order everything online?

For instance, I'm missing one of the Cam lock bolts for the plastic fairing where would I find one of those 🤷🏻‍♂️ I dunno

I also noticed, I believe it is the clutch cable, where it goes into the clutch housing... what does the spring on that do? The tail end of my spring is snapped off, so it's not doing anything... is it necessary?

 

Sweet! If the valve service wasn't done it would probably show by now. I give someone credit for putting that many miles on this bike. At least they actually rode the damn thing! You may be able to contact the local Honda dealer and ask them if they have any service records for the bike. You certainly need to make sure the rear brake pedal recall was done. So use that opportunity to pick their brain and database.

If you got this bike for under $2k I think you did damn good. I spy a lot of aftermarket eye candy from the no-cut frame sliders, the flushmounts, the Akropovic pipe, the double bubble, and decent looking tires (What's the date code on them?). The high mileage probably scared everyone else off.

If this were my bike I would;

Change the oil to Rotella T5, flush/change the brake fluids to Valvoline, flush/change the coolant to Engine Ice, have the fork oil changed and springs installed for my weight, remove both wheels and inspect the brake pads/grease the axles, clean the chain and sprockets, flip the shifter to GP shift, lube all the cables with Yamalube Lubezall, check the steering stem bearings. Get the service records from Honda. If Honda doesn't have any records then I would also change the spark plugs.

I also noticed, I believe it is the clutch cable, where it goes into the clutch housing... what does the spring on that do? The tail end of my spring is snapped off, so it's not doing anything... is it necessary?

I'm not 100% sure but I think it keeps the clutch cable from riding on the clutch by ensuring it fully disengages.

 

Welcome OP! This is a good platform as an introduction to sportbikes and you seem well mechanically inclined so you should do just fine. For new riders I'll say now and forever GET GOOD GEAR. At some point you or someone near you will make a mistake and having 1.5mm of leather to burn through on your hands and torso is better than skin graphs and months of recovery, riding boots will save you broken ankles, and kevlar pants with armor are widely available and fashionable. MSF courses and videos like Twist of the Wrist are excellent resources to improve your safety as well as riding ability.

Have fun, be safe, and keep us updated on progress with your bike

 

Welcome OP!

Thank you sir... and I appreciate the good gear recommendation...

It does seem brutal to go down at high speed without gear...

I have 2 full sleeves that weren't cheap and asphalt seems like it would make a great tatoo eraser at 100 mph...

Nope! we definitely don't want that! 😱

MSF courses and videos like Twist of the Wrist are excellent resources to improve your safety as well as riding ability.

I've been watching MotoJitsu on YouTube and was actually trying some of his parking spot, slow speed turning maneuvers yesterday.

I've already dropped it once on my second day... (Jack ass!) 🤦‍♂️ was coming to a 4 way stop and I didn't plan on coming to a full stop, but the chick who had the right of way hesitated to try to be nice and wave me through 🤦‍♂️ thanks a lot lady, lol.

Other than that, the bike is super fun & easy to ride fast so far...

I wont lie... it's a little more buzzy than I was expecting at freeway speeds...

But then again, its pretty difficult to keep freeway speeds under 100 on this thing 😆

But I have a much different opinion than most people do about so called traffic "laws"

Anyone else around her hip to UCC corporate contract law that all our Fraudulent courts operate under?

 

IIRC, Rotella T4 is conventional diesel oil, T5 is semi-synthetic, and T6 is fully synthetic.

 

Sounds right. I get my T6 at Wal-Mart since it's cheap full synthetic and I'm not inclined to get the cheaper version of the cheap oil LOL. I ride much less street now and mainly track so I've tossed around the idea of going back to Motul but at that point it's a pricey investment for 1-3 trackdays and 1,000 street miles a year.

IIRC, T4 is conventional diesel oil, T5 is semi-synthetic, and T6 is fully synthetic.

 

One thing I forgot to mention is the 03-04 bikes had some issues with the buttons on the gauge cluster. I think some of it has to do with gloved fingers and short tempers as much as faulty buttons. I'd suggest you remove your glove to use the buttons. It has a delay before it responds so it's easy to get frustrated and push harder and harder. Don't do that. Push and hold. If it doesn't work release it and try again. You don't want to get it stuck in metric mode or worse break the button altogether.

 

03-04 bikes had some issues with the buttons on the gauge cluster

Havent pushed those yet... but I'll keep that in mind since I was contemplating pushing them eventually 🤔
I do need to at least figure out how to set the clock, now that I realize how difficult it is to check the cellphone while riding.

It would just run rough and probably show a lack of power similar to the fuel pump problem but not quite as bad.

Well I dont think it's down on power anymore... I'm happy to report that I put about 120 miles on my FrankenPump setup today...

I went to Mexico & got my first real top end run in & saw 158mph👌

I didn't hang out there for very long, the shift light coming on at the top of 6th gear threw me off lol.

For reference, the highest mph I could get out of it with the clogged fuel filter was 132ish... and it was probably running lean as it struggled to get there :/

 

How long did it take you to go all this?

 

Idk not too long.... the fuel pump was out for about 24 hours total...

Once I realized plan A. had FAILED miserably, and figured out what I needed to do to fix it... it only took an hour or two.

Its pretty simple, 4 short pieces of hose & 8 hose clamps... and the dremel makes quick work of plastic.

Why do you ask? 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

If you're still running stock gearing then 158 is topped out.

 

GP Shift does not change the gearbox, it simply changes the direction your foot moves to shift. It's all 1N23456 and you're pushing down with your toes shift to higher gears with GP.

Next point and I say this will all care and respect: You keep that up with lack of experience and you're going to crash and possibly hurt yourself. Have you practiced emergency braking? If you haven't and you need to drop the nose and maneuver away from danger I fear you will lock up the wheels and crash.

I suggest braking drills, swerving drills, DMV course skills all before you snatch wheelies with less than a month seat time. Could you be already exceptionally skilled? Sure, but I don't want you to experience unnecessary harm.

 

It's all 1N23456 and you're pushing down with your toes shift to higher gears with GP.

Appreciate the response.
Hmm... So is there a benefit to GP shift then... or just personal preference?

Have you practiced emergency braking

Well I'm not at stoppie level yet, but I have some...

I can feel how the weight transfer to the front tire needs to happen prior to applying anything close to "panic brake" level forces. 👍

but I don't want you to experience unnecessary harm.

Nobody wants that... Careful is my middle name

 

GP shift flips the shifting pattern from 1 down 5 up to 1 up 5 down. This makes it less likely to hit a false neutral as you have more control and force pushing down on the shift lever versus pulling up with your toes. It also makes it faster to "Up shift" by pushing down.

Did I recommend to you a youtuber by the name of Moto Control? You need to watch some of his videos. He's got some really good fundamental skills.

 

I rode for 30 years using standard shifting pattern and thought it would be impossible for me to switch. It wasn't. I adapted very quickly. You just need to ride with a little reserve until you develop your muscle memory. I would not recommend you do this why on a track day or race. You're going to forget sometime and you don't want to be @ 14k rpm when you do forget. Making a slight mistake in gear selection is very forgivable at 6k rpm.

 

heh, heh... already done on my track bikes. Difficult part is going back to street bikes with traditional shift pattern! Wondering about adapting electronic shifter with button/paddle controls like DCT... hmmm...

 

Cool idea on the fuel filter. Why TF would Honda make a bike with a non-changeable fuel filter? I have two other bikes, and on both I've had to change the filter, my 08 B-King once at around 13,000 miles, and my 06 M109r is on it's 4th filter approaching 40,000 miles.

I keep 5 to 15 gallons of 93 octane in my garage. I refill whatever bike I'm riding upon return from the ride, keeping the fuel tank full at all times. I found out that Tractor Supply sells nozzles for fuel containers that do two things, get rid of the stupid EPA nozzle, and they have a filter in them. NICE! I also found a medical quality mesh filter, and was able to bolt that into a large red funnel. So my bikes are being fueled with gas that has been filtered three times. Once at the nozzle, once pouring it into a small half gallon plastic bottle, and once more pouring it from the plastic bottle into the bike. And yes, the mesh filter in the funnel catches a lot of crap. I started doing the filter routine in 2018, and so far, haven't had to change another fuel filter. My M109R is at the point where it would've been required mileage and time wise. So far, so good.

 

Made a revision to the fuel filter bypass yesterday...

- Removed more plastic to make more room for the filter/ hose.

- Replaced filter with a more trustworthy micro-guard paper filter.

- Shortened up the hose & added a 'structural' zip-tye to keep it tight 😉

 

Still freaks me out we're putting an electric motor inside tank full of flammable fluid!!

Since filtre is last stage, can we just put filtre on outside of tank like on carby bikes? Makes it easier to inspect and change. BTW, is that filtre rated for 50psi?

 

Since filtre is last stage, can we just put filter on outside of tank like on carby bikes?

I looked really close at this option yesterday.
There just isn't much space there the way the tank closes against the airbox.

You can possibly fit an inline filter in above the starter, to the right of the thermostat housing, but you would need to add extra fuel line and figure out how to position it just right so it doesn't kink the hose when you lower the tank.

If you are a fabricator, one option would be to cut a filter sized square out of the fuel tank and weld in a half round 'pocket'

Or possibly a BFH mod would do it... But I didn't feel like beating the tank in with a hammer 🔨

BTW, is that filtre rated for 50psi?

Hmm idk I didn't see a PSI rating... It had 3/8" ports so it should be 🤷

I did kind of half ass check the fuel flow... Mostly just to make sure the lines were clear.

But It was getting late and I didn't feel like jumping the pump to do the standard 10 second test...

But I timed it at 2 seconds of priming each time I turned the ignition on, so I just did that once to fill the lines, plus 5 more times and got 16 ounces out...

Which is quite a bit more than what the manual calls for... Idk if that is the minimum required or? 🤷

 

nice out of the box thinking,

got any photos of the inside of the original housing and original filter element? also did you consider epoxy instead of plastic weld? am pulling out my pump soon and am afraid yer giving me ideas...

 

also did you consider epoxy instead of plastic weld

I did... But I wasn't sure about submerging JB weld in gasoline if it would break down eventually 🤷

got any photos of the inside of the original housing and original filter element?

No but you can find some flow diagrams online...

All sport bikes seem to be about the same.

I colored the internal paper filter element pink...

From memory, it was about a 3" L x 1/2" W x 1/4" D

am pulling out my pump soon and am afraid yer giving me ideas...

Well one option you can try that may have worked fine, is to flush out the filter housing really good with chemtool or brake cleaner might be enough to unclog a filter...

I actually did flush mine and got a lot of dirty brake cleaner back out...

Unfortunately I didn't test it before I passed the point of no return by cutting it open...

In hindsight, I would probably try to just keep filling it, shaking it & dumping it until the brake cleaner starts coming out clear and trying that first.

 

danno brings up a good point. You NEED to recheck your fuel pressure at the rail to make sure you're not dropping the pressure to the injectors. The fuel system needs pressure to maintain proper injector spray patterns and it needs to maintain volume when you're running at full speed wide open. They are 2 different requirements that must be met.

Did you happen to notice of the OEM fuel filter has a bypass built-in? I would think for safety reasons Honda would have included a bypass in case the filter becomes clogged so the motor wouldn't starve of fuel. Same principle as oil filters.

 

Did you happen to notice of the OEM fuel filter has a bypass built-in? I would think for safety reasons Honda would have included a bypass in case the filter becomes clogged so the motor wouldn't starve of fuel

No bypass... just the regulator...
That's why when they become clogged the motor just won't rev out to redline anymore because it can't...

Mine wouldn't go past 11k rpm's even in Neutral.

The image I posted above is actually from instructions to drill a filter bypass hole & add an external inline filter like Dannoxyz was asking about... But I believe this was on a Busa where they must have more room.

 

That's good stuff danno! And a good point.

 

For V.2 maybe design can be made more compact by using copper tubing and gas tight fittings?

Not sure about compatible filters....

 

That's actually a good idea. Especially if one knows how to bend tubing and create flare joints. Old school HVAC tech.

 

My biggest concern with moving the filter outside of the tank is HEAT. I'd be afraid of causing the gas to vaporize after riding and turning the bike off. We know the starter takes a beating from the heat so mounting it above the starter may lead to more problems. I think your in tank solution works great. It would just be more refined if you used tubing instead of rubber hoses. The tubing would also eliminate any after filter contaminate concerns from the hoses and make for more secure connections.

 

Yeah, keeping stuff away from heat is major concern. Lots of people line bottom of their tanks with gold-foil to keep heat out and it really does help. You should be fine with internal filtre.

Good thing you swapped out that Microgard filtre. It's a private generic brand made for auto-parts stores and are of very low quality. Everyone I know who've tried Microgard oil-filtre has had problem with them leaking right away. Typical engineering practice is to select max-spec of roughly double average operating loads.

 

The bottom of my 2006 M109R's tank has some kind of metal foil type coating on it, same with my 2008 B-King. It also has the same type of material under the tail, I presume to keep the heat of twin tailpipes from melting the plastic body work. With the YUGE stock mufflers, it may have been a problem. With the much smaller Yoshimura on it, I doubt it.

 

Oh man, try to minimize use of the d#@n hose clamps.

They do need an occasional tightening, as vibration and hose compression over time will demand it.

HTH

 

Yes, use spring-loaded clamps or diesel/injection clamps.