Can you swap one of the other relays with the fuel pump relay and see if the pump primes? i think there are 3 under the left mid fairing, one for fan one for fuel pump and i cant recall what the 3rd is off the top of my head but try swapping those around if you havent

 

You need to stop trying to “forge ahead” to fix this. It’ll only get worse. Everything was working fine, except for headlights. This was most likely all you needed for headlight to work, fix a single broken wire.

But you tore apart way, way more than necessary because you actually never measured and tested to find what was wrong with headlights 1st. In process you broke BAS or its wiring to ECU. Its wiring is part of headlight harness.

BAS along with kill-switch activates engine-stop relay. Engine-stop relay powers ENTIRE EFi system, including ECU. It’s ECU that turns on fuel-pump. So not getting pump prime means following are dead:

• BAS or its wiring
• ECU
• fuel-pump relay
• fuel pump
• 4 injectors
• 4 ignition coils

So it’s way, way more than just fuel-pump not priming, that’s just side-effect or symptom of real problem. If you measure all those parts, you’ll find there’s no power going to them. That’s A LOT of stuff to fix and breaking 3 things for every one you fix will just make things worse and worse. At this point, best to undo everything you did to “fix” headlights In exact reverse order.

Then bike will start and run just fine like before with no headlights. Then we roll it forward to fix headlight properly by testing and measuring in non-invasive, non-interference manner to find what’s wrong 1st. Then we do only what’s minimum needed to fix headlight without changing anything else. No touching of EFI system at all!

 

You need to stop trying to “forge ahead” to fix this. It’ll only get worse. Everything was working fine, except for headlights. This was most likely all you needed for headlight to work, fix a single broken wire.

View attachment 232235

But you tore apart way, way more than necessary because you actually never measured and tested to find what was wrong with headlights 1st. In process you broke BAS or its wiring to ECU. Its wiring is part of headlight harness.

BAS along with kill-switch activates engine-stop relay. Engine-stop relay powers ENTIRE EFi system, including ECU. It’s ECU that turns on fuel-pump. So not getting pump prime means following are dead:

• BAS or its wiring
• ECU
• fuel-pump relay
• fuel pump
• 4 injectors
• 4 ignition coils

So it’s way, way more than just fuel-pump not priming, that’s just side-effect or symptom of real problem. If you measure all those parts, you’ll find there’s no power going to them. That’s A LOT of stuff to fix and breaking 3 things for every one you fix will just make things worse and worse. At this point, best to undo everything you did to “fix” headlights In exact reverse order.

Then bike will start and run just fine like before. Then we roll it forward to fix headlight properly by testing and measuring in non-invasive, non-interference manner to find what’s wrong 1st. Then we do only what’s minimum to fix it without changing anything else.

golly day yea, i for sure took off more then i needed. i followed a youtube vid and then was like **** why isnt it working. I bypasses some stuff and now the fuel prime is priming but now it wont stop priming. is this a vacuum issue or a relay issue?

 

So let’s make list of things you did to fix headlight so we can back out in exact reverse order. Then bike will run perfectly fine, and we just have 5-min fix for headlights. Figured it went something like this (please fill blanks, re-order as needed for accuracy:

BEGINNING: Bike works fine, headlights don’t.

• removing fairing
• remove headlights
• remove headlight subharness (also removed BAS and its wiring)
• replace headlight subharness
• reconnect BAS and its wiring????
• bolt up new headlights
• connect headlight wiring
• reinstall fairing

END: headlights work. But BAS, engine-stop relay, ECU, fuel-pump relay, fuel-pump, injectors, ignition-coils dead

There’s probably lots little steps in between that I left out where something could’ve gone wrong. Add in all those little pieces and let‘s look it over. Then we’ll undo it all in reverse order. This will be least amount of work to get bike working.

Get one of these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html

Learn this to measure voltage and resistance.

How to Use a Multimeter - SparkFun Learn

Once you reverse your headlight ”fix” so bike is running fine again, it’s just another 5-min after that to fix headlights with multimeter.

 

the yt video i followed did all these steps. i have that tool and have tested a lot of things on the bike which is why its so frustrating. but now the fuel pump primes but doesnt shut off. so it turns over, primes continuously and still will not fire.

 

Bike doesn't start HELP! So pump originally would not prime. watched some yt vids and followed some forms. Now the pump does not stop priming and when its priming it does not sound healthy. The dash has code 0, or the FI symbol pops up and stays on. Any advice would be helpful
some things i have checked or bypassed, BAS, starter and fuel cut off relays, pump with power hooked to it, zeener diod, all fuses, sprayed contact cleaner on connections.
Do you think it could be due to the vacuum or smth?

 

1. Headlights don’t work

2. Headlights work, but BAS, BAS wiring, engine-stop relay, ECU, fuel-pump relay, fuel pump, injectors, ignition coils are busted

You need to stop trying to “forge ahead” to fix this. It’ll only get worse.

3. Headlights and fuel-pump work, but BAS, BAS wiring, engine-stop relay, ECU, fuel-pump relay, injectors, ignition coils are busted along with code 0, FI light on dash

Do you see trend here?
What else do you want to break?

There ARE proper, correct and effective troubleshooting steps that work 100% of the time and they are not YouTube videos! For example:

IF you pour gasoline on piece of paper and throw lit match on it, THEN what happens? It’ll catch on fire!!! Always! 100% of the time!!

IF you follow proper, correct and effective troubleshooting steps (not YouTube), THEN bike will be fixed for sure 100% of time and run like brand-new!

That’s NOT from watching YouTube videos!!!
How much has YouTube helped you with fixing bike?

Do you think doctors learn brain-surgery by watching YouTube videos?
Do you think engineers who designed this awesome bike did it by watching YouTube videos?
Do you think professional mechanics at dealerships fixes bikes by watching YouTube videos?

No, Honda hired some extremely smart engineers to design and build bike. They also wrote instructions for dealer mechanics on how to fix their bikes. You need to get this manual and follow it step-by-step and STOP when something doesn’t match what manual says it should be. Like measuring 11v somewhere when it should be 13v. Post ALL your measurements in order here, but DO NOT change anything on bike in attempt to “fix” it. You’re only gonna make it worse. Show us the numbers first. Then we’ll formulate plan to adjust something next so numbers will match properly.

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Please keep your troubleshooting info in the same thread so people can see the entire progression.

 

Cause and effect are pretty straight-forward in life.

Cause: throw lit match on pile of rags soaked in petrol
Effect: it catches on fire!! Every time, 100% of the time!!

Cause: smash your hand with 10-lb sledgehammer
Effect: broken hand!! Every time, 100% of the time!!

Cause: headlights were not working so i replaced it with a new one. i have checked or bypassed, BAS, starter and fuel cut off relays, pump with power hooked to it, zeener diod, all fuses, sprayed contact cleaner on connections.
Effect: Headlights work, but BAS, BAS wiring, engine-stop relay, ECU, fuel-pump relay, injectors, ignition coils are busted along with code 0, FI light on dash


Do you see that every time you try to “fix” bike, it gets worse and worse with more and more stuff broken? You gotta STOP watching those idiots on YouTube. Over half of them are click-bait purposely created to make you break your bike. You’re following stuff like this:

HOW TO FIX CBR600RR NO PUMP-PRIME PROBLEM IN 2.5 EASY STEPS!!

• load Glock mag fully, must be fully loaded
• insert loaded mag into Glock gun
• aim gun at BAS, because it’s cause of all your problems
• pull trigger, keep on pulling trigger until problem is fixed!
• done!!

Try these YouTube videos, promise to send me 1/2 of money saved. You're welcome!

 

Ok, once you undo and reverse all your “fixes” and put bike back to original state:

Bike runs perfectly, but headlights don’t work.

Follow this guide to fix headlight: https://www.600rr.net/threads/06-headlight-trouble-but-maybe-im-just-a-bad-electrician.591722/

First step is to measure and test to find exactly what’s wrong without changing anything on bike. Could be any number of things:

• loose/corroded connector
• broken start-button
• burned-out bulb
• broken wire

Once you’ve identified exactly what’s causing headlight to not work, you can fix just that spot. No need to tear entire front-end apart and break EFI system. Would really suck if all you had was burned out bulb.

 

okay I bought a new harness and restored everything back to how it was. There is no fuel pump prime, no high beams. Relays work i can hear them click. The dash has the FI symbol come on and stays on when i turn the start stop switch to the on position.

 

Very 1st thing, DO NOT DO ANYTHING to change harness, no rigging or bypassing!!! Remember what happened last time where things got worse and worse? Which harness did you replace?

• main harness
• headlight subharness (includes BAS wiring)
• injector subharness
• ignition coils subharness

Only get brand-new factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer. If not, it’s probably used harness and had been hacked up and damaged even worse than your previous one.

Also, ECU is probably fried from previous rigging and bypassing anyway. Because it’s ECU that primes pump. And if ECU’s busted, it won’t prime pump, it won’t fire injectors or trigger sparks either. So rigging things to articially run pump won’t make bike run. It’s like putting dead human on life-support so their heart beats, but brain is dead and they’re never ever gonna come back.

Replacing parts, rigging and bypasing randomly is troubleshooting method that’s wasteful of time and money. Imagine going to doctors about tiredness. They come back with, “Well, we think your problem is bad heart. Let’s replace it and see if that takes care of it!.“ And if you survive operation and still have problem, they say, “Well… might be lungs, let’s replace them and see if that solves your problem!”

Nah, most likely what they’ll do is order series of test that measures various health and metabolic factors like RHR, BP, MHR, recovery rate, A1C, RBC, HCT, MCV, BUN, etc. Then looking at numbers that come back from these tests, they can determine more precisely exactly what’s wrong with you before slicing you open needlessly. A high WBC - white blood cell count would indicate infection your body’s trying to fight off and that’s why you’re tired. Nothing to do with heart & lungs. Cultures may be taken to determine what kind of infection you have to devise best course for treatment.

As introduction to proper troubleshooting method with measuring and testing, let’s go through finding out why high-beams don’t work. We can’t fix it until we find actual problem 1st.

1. measure battery-voltage with everything OFF, volts=???

2. connect tender charger to battery to prevent killing it while troubleshooting

3. remove high-beam light-bulb, remove adapter at end, don’t lose it

4. with jumper-cables, use one to connect battery-neg to body of bulb, use other to connect battery-pos to centre terminal of bulb. Does bulb light?

5. at bulb socket, measure resistance between blk wire terminal and battery -neg terminal. ohms=???

6. Key ON, dimmer-switch=HI, measure power at headlight socket blk/blu wire terminal, volts = ???

If you can test and measure to fix high-beams without breaking anything else, we can proceed to getting bike to run. Also start looking around for brand-new factory ECU from authorised dealer. No used parts, especially electronics!! After we test every single wire harness (because it’s used), and verify that every single wire is not broken and connected to proper end-points, then only conclusion at that point is ECU’s fried from previous rigging and bypassing. Don’t get it yet until we’ve tested harness and verified everything’s correct. 1st, fixing headlights.

 

Very 1st thing, DO NOT DO ANYTHING to change harness, no rigging or bypassing!!! Remember what happened last time where things got worse and worse? Which harness did you replace?

• main harness
• headlight subharness (includes BAS wiring)
• injector subharness
• ignition coils subharness

Only get brand-new factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer. If not, it’s probably used harness and had been hacked up and damaged even worse than your previous one.

Also, ECU is probably fried from previous rigging and bypassing anyway. Because it’s ECU that primes pump. And if ECU’s busted, it won’t prime pump, it won’t fire injectors or trigger sparks either. So rigging things to articially run pump won’t make bike run. It’s like putting dead human on life-support so their heart beats, but brain is dead and they’re never ever gonna come back.

Replacing parts, rigging and bypasing randomly is troubleshooting method that’s wasteful of time and money. Imagine going to doctors about tiredness. They come back with, “Well, we think your problem is bad heart. Let’s replace it and see if that takes care of it!.“ And if you survive operation and still have problem, they say, “Well… might be lungs, let’s replace them and see if that solves your problem!”

Nah, most likely what they’ll do is order series of test that measures various health and metabolic factors like RHR, BP, MHR, recovery rate, A1C, RBC, HCT, MCV, BUN, etc. Then looking at numbers that come back from these tests, they can determine more precisely exactly what’s wrong with you before slicing you open needlessly. A high WBC - white blood cell count would indicate infection your body’s trying to fight off and that’s why you’re tired. Nothing to do with heart & lungs. Cultures may be taken to determine what kind of infection you have to devise best course for treatment.

As introduction to proper troubleshooting method with measuring and testing, let’s go through finding out why high-beams don’t work. We can’t fix it until we find actual problem 1st.

1. measure battery-voltage with everything OFF, volts=???

2. connect tender charger to battery to prevent killing it while troubleshooting

3. remove high-beam light-bulb, remove adapter at end, don’t lose it

4. with jumper-cables, use one to connect battery-neg to body of bulb, use other to connect battery-pos to centre terminal of bulb. Does bulb light?

5. at bulb socket, measure resistance between blk wire terminal and battery -neg terminal. ohms=???

6. Key ON, dimmer-switch=HI, measure power at headlight socket blk/blu wire terminal, volts = ???

If you can test and measure to fix high-beams without breaking anything else, we can proceed to getting bike to run. Also start looking around for brand-new factory ECU from authorised dealer. No used parts, eapecially electronics!! After we test every single wire harness (because it’s used), and verify that every single wire is not broken and connected to proper end-points, then only conclusion at that point is ECU’s fried from previous rigging and bypassing. Don’t get it yet until we’ve tested harness and verified everything’s correct. 1st, fixing headlights.

I will be following your thread for the headlights and tell you how that goes. thank you for all your help I'm sure I will have more questions, or might ask to use your Glock. (im sorry I've been not listening to you and YouTube instead)
I WILL NOT CUT ANYTHING OR RIG ANYTHING WITHOUT YOUR APPROVAL SIR!

the new harness's that I have gotten:
-Main harness (used but no visible signed of cuts or damage)
-Nose harness (new from partzilla)

I have the other two harnesses as well off of my parts bike. I have also ordered new relays and a BAS as well. I will be starting diagnosing when they arrive for no fuel pump prime is not caused by no high beams.

Should I try top reset the ECM following the instructions in section 5 of the service manual?

After I figure out the headlights, or what's causing the high beams not to come on. If its not the same issue causing no high beams and no fuel pump prime, will you walk me thru where to start with diagnosing properly and how to do it? I saw your wire diagram for the headlights which is so extremely helpful!

 

NO!!! Leave it alone. That’s for CBR600F4i in stock condition with minor electrical faults. Yours has been hacked and broken and needs much more careful inspection, testing and measuring.

Don’t you see you’re still making MAKING EXACT SAME MISTAKES AS LAST TIME? Not doing proper measuring and testing to come up with numbers!. Trying easy “quick fixes” that’ll just break things and makes problem worse! This is 5-minute fix with simple measurements and testing.

We do your headlights first. If that gets messed up, that’s much simpler to reverse and undo compared to EFI system.

I’ve helped over 100 people with this exact problem in remote dark parking-lots in middle of night, by phone! A lot of times in pouring rain! All it takes is couple simple measurements with numbers. The sooner you get these numbers the quicker we get bike fixed. Simple.

 

Country folks would say "You're gettin' the cart before the horse son."

 

Alright dannoxy I'm not your bitch anymore I fixed it. The issue was the second time around was the zener diod. I probably fried it. I checked the relays and the connections to if they were getting volts and they all were. The fuel pump also would get volts for a split sec. If you jumped pump it would run but bike still would not start. So I cut the pink wire above connect to main harness so I can replace that wife if needed. I crimped a new wire together with a gator clip on the end. I ran that to a 9 volt battery under the backpack seat. I connected it to the positive and then the neg to the neg on battery. I am now master of bikes and you must listen to me!

 

Hahahahh!! Ok, now you have to carry around 9v battery to start bike.

 

Yea basically, I appreciate your help tho. I would have sold the bike by now if you didn't help me.

 

Nice job gnsair!

 

Good job! Have fun! These bikes are so much fun… when they’re working!