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Discussion starter · #101 ·
Are rains the same price as street tires? or are they a little less expensive? and what about slicks?
In short, both the rains and slicks are pricier than street tires, but when comparing to street tires, it's somewhat subjective, as the "latest, greatest" street tires available, are pricier than average street tires, and of course, once they've been out for a while, the price comes down, so let's just compare some prices here:

First, the latest best offerings by Dunlop and Michelin for the street...

*Dunlop Q3's for my bike would run $242.98 ($112.99 front/$129.99 rear)
*Michelin Pilot Road 4 Standard (GT is not available smaller than 180) runs $321.86 ($143.33 front/$178.53 rear)

For "yesterday's" great street tires...

*Dunlop Q2's would be $234.98 ($104.99 front/$129.99 rear)
*Michelin Pilot Power 3's are $258.98 ($113.99 front/$144.99 rear)

Now for the race tires:

*The Dunlop rains ran me $350 ($378 with shipping.)

*The slicks cost me $378 ($403 with shipping.)

Bear in mind that you almost always pay shipping on race tires when you have them delivered, but pretty much none of the prominent online merchants charge for shipping on an order as big as a set of tires (Motorcycle-Superstore, SportbikeTrackGear, Jake Wilson, Revzilla, CycleGear, etc.)

I hope that answers your question!
 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
Do you just have two sets of tires for the race bike then? Rains and slicks? :)
Two sets of rims/rotors, three sets of tires, the Dunlop slicks and rains, and I still have a real nice set of DOT Race Michelins with lots of life left (Power One med. compound rear/Power Cup V med. compound front).

I'll be getting more slicks on the way as soon as I have the scratch, AND once I see how the medium compounds work out.
 
Discussion starter · #105 ·
Dunlop Rain Tires

I got around to installing the other right-angle valve stem set in my spare black rims, polished them up, mounted the rains and balanced both wheels, and got the rear rotor mounted - once I get the front rotors on, the rain set is good to go.

 
Discussion starter · #108 ·
Wet Setup Complete

Very little has been going on, but I'll be a little bit busy with some bike work this weekend - I got the front rotors and cush drive/sprocket carrier installed on the wet set, and since we're finally past the point where it's still freezing overnight, I'm headin' out now to re-mount the race wheels, and get the race brakes installed, among other things.


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Discussion starter · #110 ·
What brakes are you putting on?
Carbone Lorraine race pads, RX-3's in the rear, and C59/C60 up front... fantastic pads. :thumbup:
 
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Discussion starter · #112 ·
Discussion starter · #114 ·
Thanks Jailbreak! :thumbup:
Future changes will be changing to a total-loss electrical system, and hopefully at some point during this season, the deployment of a quick-shifter.
 
Discussion starter · #116 ·
Excellent work man, really look forward to hearing your feedback once your track season starts.
Good luck and have fun man.
Thanks Raj, and you betcha, I'll keep you posted through the season. :thumbup:
 
Discussion starter · #118 ·
My local vendor also speaks highly of carbon lorraine, at the same price as the ebc extreme's i might give them a try somewhere this season
You will NOT be sorry! Carbone Lorraine's are the best race pads I've ever run! :thumbup:
Be advised, though, the C59 (now C60) are not recommended for the street, but your '05 RR is a dedicated track bike, isn't it?
 
Discussion starter · #119 ·
So I finally got the CL pads on, got the wheels re-mounted, re-torqued the fasteners, and wired it all back up.

I had put some new OEM pads on the rear, which only saw a wee bit of track time, so with the CL pads also on the rear now, I'm left with that set of OEM rear pads, with lots of life left, to put on the street bike.

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And then... nekkid again!!

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I put in some new plugs, and added a couple of gallons of fresh fuel to the very near empty tank.

Before winter, I had expressed that the thing didn't seem to be running right, and I suspected I was running a smidge rich, and that the semi-new plugs were already fouled out... indeed, they were a touch fouled out, and wet.
I put in some new plugs, and decided to dial my fuel screws back in to 2 1/4 turns out, which is only 1/8 turn over OEM baseline, and start it up and run it for a while.
I noted it was struggling, and on the lean side, so I adjusted 1/4 turn out, started it and ran it for a bit, and repeated, until it ran the best - this had me still ending up at 3 turns, which is where it started, but something just didn't seem right - even after letting it warm up plenty, the idle just wasn't right... wasn't smooth.

I suspected a slight air leak, so I let it cool off for a bit while I worked on other stuff.
I fired it back up, ran it for about 2 minutes, sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake boots, and sure enough, I had an immediate increase in revs, so instead of putting the bodywork right back on, like I had planned, I'll have to yank the tank and airbox, and check my boot clamps.
 
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