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SPY 5000m Alarm/Remote Start Install DIY

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172K views 454 replies 58 participants last post by  siavelis1973  
#1 · (Edited)
Guide to installation of Spy 5000m alarm and remote start! There is really nothing out there so Im going to explain the way I did it with tips and pictures! *I am not responsible for any damage done so do at your own risk (I fried my computer the first time I did it). The bike is a 2007 cbr600rr but you can use this for other years too but wires may be different-- pm me if you need help.

Lets get to work:

1. Remove necessary parts-- DO NOT FORGET TO REMOVE THE BATTERY!

2. Hide all the equipment and run the wires - I used space under the seat and in passenger seat (when I installed the Led the whole was too large that I drilled so I lined the light with tape to secure it).. Dont forget to add heat shrink to protect the wires and keep them organized/compact **I moved some of my equipment than pictured to be better hidden**

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3. Yellow wires - Splice into bikes turn signals (light blue and orange wire in photo)

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3. Blue wire- Splice into bikes red/yellow wire on large relay with main 30amp fuse (This is what starts the bike and I think its the starter relay but correct me if im wrong)

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4. Brown Wire- needs to go into any of the bikes key on positive so I spliced into one of the wires on the back of the fuse box (i think it was one going into the headlight/turnsignals/ horn relay but use a test light to find one) --- it is the red/black bike wire

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5. Pink and Gray wires are the ones that confuse everyone the most so here is how I did it -- You need to find a wire that is hot when the kill switch is on and turns off when the kill switch is off (use a test light!) I found a red wire (it was solid red but it looked like a white or silver dot on it too) that goes in the back of a harness on the right of the battery. Once you find this wire you have to cut it and connect the gray to the side going from the harness and connect the pink to the side going towards the harness (I soldered the wires & dont forget heat shrink or some sort of insulations)

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6. The red and black wires -- are attached to the battery last (use an adapter thing at the end of the wires to secure the connection -mine are marine ones) *there are two grounds in this set up so dont be confused that you have two black wires, both are grounds although I did not connect both to the battery (One is connected to the frame)**

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7. Your spy alarm and bike are now set up! Check all connections and start playing with the remote! I have a digital copy of the manual as well so pm me if you need that.

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***THE BIKE WILL NOT REMOTE START IN GEAR AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE KICKSTAND DOWN contrary to others beliefs***

-I am also uploading a review video to youtube right now so ill have that up soon too! ******video add on a few posts down*****
 
#21 ·
Sorry it took so long for me to get these up..

It's still not clear to see but the antenna is below the frame, inverted. Each side of the antenna is touching the frame so it should extend the range pretty substantially. Nothing like a boosted antenna or anything but i get better reception on my remote than I do on my evo 4g from inside my apartment, so it clearly has the power/range.

You can't actually see the antenna, so I did a shitty mock up on the way it is in there.

Image
 
#48 ·
Shouldnt matter. It will be a part of the circuit either way as long as the tail light is connected to its pigtail, you will be fine. I would splice it into the harness going to the bike though, that way you have fewer cables to remove when pulling off your tail.

I put my speaker on the right side in the tail(also removed the tab) and I threw my proximity sensor underneath the tank cover.
 
#158 ·
The way I understand it, if the alarm is engaged and you stick even the key into the ignition to turn it, it will not prime and start. That's why you have to wire it directly to the ignition. The "brain" unit overrides the ignition as the primary source of direction. Unlike in some cars where you can stick the key in the ignition and start it to disable the alarm, you can't do that with this system.

If the alarm is not engaged, someone can just jam the screwdriver in there and ride off just like it's a non-alarmed bike. That being the case, the anti-hijack is the real security here. The other things about the alarm are just audible and visual deterrents. If you don't want them to ride off on your bike, wire the anti-hijack.

That being said, if they have a truck or a van they will just be able to lift it and go, alarm and all and figure it out later.
 
#163 · (Edited)
If you didn't wire the anti-hijack(pink and gray), ya you can turn it on with the key. The alarm will bitch but it will still run. If you wire it and try to start it with the alarm armed, it will tell you to go **** yourself by way of not starting. My battery is pretty much dead at the moment so I can't just test it out or I would.

I don't recall turning it on. I don't have my manual with me at work so I can't research it.

I'm fairly certain either you wire it and it's on or you don't and it doesn't work.
 
K
#216 · (Edited)
Ok so I figured out how to bypass my HISS system on my 01 F4i. It may be different for other bikes but here it goes.


First off I need to thanks qteter for letting me bounce ideas off of him in order to make this work. But anyways there is a pink wire under your seat going to the ECM. It is a solid pink wire!! Not the striped or dotted one!! Test this wire and you should get around 9 volts when the ignition is turned on. This is what the computer needs to sense so it doesn’t think its being hot wired.


Some supplies you will need are a 1k-Ohn resistor and a 5.1V zener diode. Part numbers at radio shack are 271-153 and 276-0565. You’ll also need a little wire.


You have to put the resistor and diode in this order for it to work!!
You will also want to seal this in shrink wrap or electrical tape which isn’t shown in the picture.





Once you have this jumper wire made it is very simple!!
Connect one end to the pink wire going to the ECM and the other end to a wire that gets 12V when the ignition is on.


A quick way to test if it works or not is turn on your key, if the fuel primes it works if not check what you did because now your bike won’t even start with the key!


The only problem I found with this method is that now when it is remote started the bike can be driven off without the key. I haven’t looked at it too much but I am not too worried about it since I always have the steering locked and it is more of a show off feature.


So while I’m waiting to be activated to submit this post I figured I’ll show you my setup!!

Wires could be cleaner but hey it works!
]

I’m thinking I may move the proximity sensor more towards the front but not sure yet.
 
#217 ·
Kuchar09 said:
Ok so I figured out how to bypass my HISS system on my 01 F4i. It may be different for other bikes but here it goes.


First off I need to thanks gteter for letting me bounce ideas off of him in order to make this work. But anyways there is a pink wire under your seat going to the ECM. It is a solid pink wire!! Not the striped or dotted one!! Test this wire and you should get around 9 volts when the ignition is turned on. This is what the computer needs to sense so it doesn’t think its being hot wired.


Some supplies you will need are a 1k-Ohn resistor and a 5.1V zener diode. Part numbers at radio shack are 271-153 and 276-0565. You’ll also need a little wire.


You have to put the resistor and diode in this order for it to work!!
You will also want to seal this in shrink wrap or electrical tape which isn’t shown in the picture.





Once you have this jumper wire made it is very simple!!
Connect one end to the pink wire going to the ECM and the other end to a wire that gets 12V when the ignition is on.


A quick way to test if it works or not is turn on your key, if the fuel primes it works if not check what you did because now your bike won’t even start with the key!


The only problem I found with this method is that now when it is remote started the bike can be driven off without the key. I haven’t looked at it too much but I am not too worried about it since I always have the steering locked and it is more of a show off feature.


So while I’m waiting to be activated to submit this post I figured I’ll show you my setup!!

Wires could be cleaner but hey it works!
]

I’m thinking I may move the proximity sensor more towards the front but not sure yet.
Click to expand...
Qteter*

You made it! Thanks for the addition!


Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
 
#246 ·
:(. If/when you get a replacement, throw it under the gas tank cover. It's where mine is and I have no problems with it.. when I have a remote.

Speaking of that.. Still looking for someone willing to sell me a spare remote. I had another attempted theft of the bike the other night. I updated my almost stolen thread. Idiots cut my antenna for the alarm but left the brain unit and siren in place.. :retard::retard:

Also going to take this chance to do the RFID install that InstitutionalizedRR did, just need to see if it messes with the remote start(one of my favorite features of the 5000m).
 
N
#253 ·
Hi people! I recently bought a SPY 5000m for my 2007 CBR600RR and I searched the internet for the wiring diagram on how to connect it. When I was searching to see where other people are placing the alarm, I found this forum. I just want to offer my help in explaning what the wires are on the alarm. Hopefully I can be some help. First of all, I have not install the alarm to my bike yet, but I do want to explain for the people who are wondering what and how the alarm works. Take my opinion/knowledge into consideration but do it at your own risk. And I have not read the whole forum to find out what has been covered or not (read about the first 6 pages).

I'll start on what wire does what on the alarm:
Red: Powers the alarm module - should connect to battery positive
Black: Grounds the alarm module - should connect to frame or battery ground
Brown: Ignition Power - should connect to ignition power positive side
Blue: Remote Start - should connect to starter solenoid positive side
Yellow & Yellow: turn signal lights - should connect to left & right turn signals positive
Gray & Pink: Kills the bike (This seems to be the one people stumble on. I'll do some explanation here. This should connect to the kill switch. On older bikes in general, some of them do not have a kill switch; therefore, the alarm manual shows that it connects to the ignition. The kill switch provides a path to power a relay that provides power to the ignition coils and injectors. For bikes that does not have kill switch, the ignition does the same thing. The kill switch should be cut and connect with the Gray & Pink wires. When the alarm receives a signal to kill the bike, it cuts off power to the relay and shuts off power to ignition and injectors etc. - cut kill switch positive wire, connect positive wire to alarm Pink wire and connect alarm Gray wire to negative side of kill switch wire

For the people that wonder why their bikes would remote start or remost shut off even with some wires uninstalled, there's a reason for it. First, you guys did connect the blue wire, which would enable the remote start. Second, even with the Gray & Pink wire uninstalled, the bike would still shut off (not through the proper designed way). When you press a certain button on the remote to kill the bike, the alarm will cut power to the Brown wire. This wire provides power to the bike's computer (indirectly). When the bike's computer has no power, it'll stop the signal for ignition and injector and therefore, stops operation.

Like I said, I haven't actually install it into my bike yet, nor did I test and confirm what each wires are. I actually just came back home from being away 2 years, so I haven't even seen my bike yet. But here's how I would wire my bike according to the 2007 CBR600RR wiring diagram (for consideration only, at least till I install or confirm the wires):

(Alarm wire - Motorcycle wire)
Red - Battery Positive (at battery)
Black - Battery Negative or Frame (at battery or frame)
Blue - Yellow/Red (Technically is yellow/red, but you guys called it red/yellow) (close to starter)
Brown - Red/Blue (under fuse box)
Gray & Pink - Blue (cut blue wire and joint positive side to pink and gray to negative side of wire) (under first relay beside fuse panel)
Yellow - Light Blue (you should be able to find this one)
Yellow - Orange (you should be able to find this one as well)
 
C
#270 ·
I hook up the alarm on my bike and the Pink and Gary is for the kill switch for the alarm when it go off. it's optional to connect them, Lot of people burn there alarm brain with these two wire when incorrect wiring with the bike. the alarm will function with out these two wires. If they need to be connect it would need to be in series,
 
#266 ·
BenTheRighteous said:
SO... my Spy alarm just paid for itself last night. Thieves came by at 3AM and started lifting the cover off of my bike. The alarm went off and they ran.

Today, I still have a motorcycle thanks to the alarm. I'm pissed that we have a thief problem, but couldn't be happier that I still have my bike.
Click to expand...
its a good feeling isnt it!! glad they didnt get yo shyt!!
 
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#285 · (Edited)
L
#352 ·
Just came across this thread and I'm happy I did! I've pretty much read every page and am convinced that the spy5000m is pretty good although you just need to go through the quirks and chirps right ?:poke:
Also I couldn't understand the fuel pump, do you basically turn the bike on with the first click and give it a few to primer and then start it?
Also were there any problems with installing this on the new 600rr as opposed to older ones? Running into any issues.
I'm riding an 09 and just want to know what I'm up against here because this alarm/keyless starter seems awesome !:newyears:
 
S
#409 ·
Just got done installing this on my 2012 600rr.

Guys if you are installing this and want to use engine disable just hook the pink and gray to the solid black wire that goes to the engine stop relay. This is the wire that ties directly to the engine kill switch. Just cut it in half and then splice in the the grey and pink. It doesnt matter which color goes on which end because pink and gray acts as a closed switch when the alarm is disarmed and is open when it is armed.
Remote start has nothing to do with gray and pink wires.
 
#427 ·
Under the frame may block reception. I'd do the side (that's where I had mine) but watch where you run the wire. You may crush it. Not sure if you ride 2up. You could always try if in both places with the tail and seat in place. See how far away it works in both positions.


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 
#430 ·
Dimacus- should be fine. Mine did he same. Just make sure you do t leave your blinker on or the alarm will keep chirping the 3 chirps even if you arm it.

AJ26- I haven't tried on a bike but when we did cars that had chips in the key there was a special module with an antennae that went around the ignition that ten admitted the code to "trick" the ignition into thinking there was a key in it. But it took an extra key and the module. I'm sure it's got to be a similar option but not sure of the process with these alarms.


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 
#440 · (Edited)
Best as I can tell whatever wire you have cut for the pink/gray wiring is getting power when the secondary fuel rail kicks in. Same thing happened to me. This powers the engine cut off on the alarm and then the bike kick starts itself. You need a wire from the engine cutoff so the bike won't run if the alarm goes off. There is a discussion on pages 13 and 14
 
#2 ·
Nice writeup, i've been meaning to do this one myself but glad you beat me to it ;)
So you installed the engine cutoff too? I read some people had it cut off while riding at high revs... Since that would make fore a scary situation i decided to not do it but wondering if you tested this?
 
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