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SPY 5000m Alarm/Remote Start Install DIY

172K views 454 replies 58 participants last post by  siavelis1973  
Love my 5000m. I had posted a review of it somewhere on here and I have one on Youtube. My engine cut off saved it from being stolen back in October so I definitely suggest taking the time to do it properly for anyone else looking at it.

Regarding the high revs problem. I have never had the engine cut off at high revs and I have had a few false neutrals in the past year with some quick shifts. I was pinging pretty hard when it happened and had no problems.


That is my review. Sorry for the shitty video, but you get the idea. I love my 5000m. Nothing but good things to say about it and since it saved my baby back in October, its worth about 30x what I paid for it :banger::banger:
 
I get better reception with my alarm than I do with my phone in my apartment. i have my antenna touching the frame though. Should boost your signal a little bit.

I have no issues with the alarm tweaking out when I get off. It does it's three beeps and stops. I may have just gotten a good unit.

Posted with the motorcycle.com app on my Evo 4g.
 
Sorry it took so long for me to get these up..

It's still not clear to see but the antenna is below the frame, inverted. Each side of the antenna is touching the frame so it should extend the range pretty substantially. Nothing like a boosted antenna or anything but i get better reception on my remote than I do on my evo 4g from inside my apartment, so it clearly has the power/range.

You can't actually see the antenna, so I did a shitty mock up on the way it is in there.

Image
 
Shouldnt matter. It will be a part of the circuit either way as long as the tail light is connected to its pigtail, you will be fine. I would splice it into the harness going to the bike though, that way you have fewer cables to remove when pulling off your tail.

I put my speaker on the right side in the tail(also removed the tab) and I threw my proximity sensor underneath the tank cover.
 
So today my system shorted kinda... When it chirped it would flash my headlights with the turn signals.. It sprinkled a little today but I don't know of this contribute to it cause it's rained hard on it several times already.. Anyways I unplugged everything and moved the wires and it's working perfectly again... Maybe a pinched wire? I wonder of they make something to put under the seat to protect the wires from water?


-qteter
I have seen this happen if I leave my turn signals on and remove the key. It will triple chirp and flash every ~5 seconds until I turn on the bike and clear the signal.

I have ridden with the bike in straight up downpours here in Texas with the alarm without any issues. That's not just water coming in from the top, it's water being thrown at it from the bottom and through the tail vent(rear res delete) etc etc. I am horrible at soldering, so I just spliced everything in. Done well enough on cables that never move, you should be fine as I have been in all of my electrical projects(car and bike).

Either way, glad you fixed it, just throwing what I have seen in terms of "bugs" out there.
 
2 extra wires are def. for engine cutoff/anti hijack mode making the bike not start if it's tampered with. I am no expert but this has nothing to do with cutting the engine by pressing the unlock in remote start mode. I did not install these as they require to not just splice but actually cut the wires going to and from the ecu. That's a bit too risky for me ;)
These two wires are what saved mine from being stolen in October. Thief couldn't get the bike to crank so he dumped it.
 
It does not die


-qteter
The way I understand it is that it will die after ten minutes. I've ridden the bike short distances(to the gas station and back) without the key on remote start.

As far as where I wired them to, I can honestly say I don't remember. It was a while ago now. I will have the fairings off shortly to do some work on the bike and will see what I can find.

All of the functions work, I can remote start/kill, obviously enable and disable the alarm(with pretty good range), the anti-hijack works because that's what kept the bike in my possession(but then again, how do you test that?), proximity and tilt sensors are solid pieces etc.

The longest part of wiring the anti-hijack was finding(and verifying) which wires to cut from the ignition. I was searching on here, other forums and of course Google. It can be scary, but they are just electrical wires. You can patch it if you make a mistake easily enough. Just make sure you cut it far enough from any connections that you can easily strip a bit of the cable.

Sorry guys, I had meant to do a more thorough walk through when I went through the install but I ended up doing a **** ton of mods that day and just didn't take the time. :banghead::banghead:
 
The way I understand it, if the alarm is engaged and you stick even the key into the ignition to turn it, it will not prime and start. That's why you have to wire it directly to the ignition. The "brain" unit overrides the ignition as the primary source of direction. Unlike in some cars where you can stick the key in the ignition and start it to disable the alarm, you can't do that with this system.

If the alarm is not engaged, someone can just jam the screwdriver in there and ride off just like it's a non-alarmed bike. That being the case, the anti-hijack is the real security here. The other things about the alarm are just audible and visual deterrents. If you don't want them to ride off on your bike, wire the anti-hijack.

That being said, if they have a truck or a van they will just be able to lift it and go, alarm and all and figure it out later.
 
Not the same.

I took the nose off to wire my low beam to my highs and checked on this. My model (03) had two cables coming out of the pig tail for the ignition.

I cut the white/black and fed the pink cable to the ignition side of the wire. The gray then connects to the black/white on the ecu side. Here are some pics. The red wire is because the gray/pink weren't long enough. I traced them twice just to be sure:




Posted with the motorcycle.com app on my Evo 4g.
 
If you didn't wire the anti-hijack(pink and gray), ya you can turn it on with the key. The alarm will bitch but it will still run. If you wire it and try to start it with the alarm armed, it will tell you to go **** yourself by way of not starting. My battery is pretty much dead at the moment so I can't just test it out or I would.

I don't recall turning it on. I don't have my manual with me at work so I can't research it.

I'm fairly certain either you wire it and it's on or you don't and it doesn't work.
 
It's the harness coming from the ignition cylinder. It should wrap around the right side of the bike under the tank cover.

Remove the tank cover, start at the base of the ignition cylinder and follow it to the connector to the harness. The connector should have a white/black and orange cable coming from it on the ECU SIDE. For some reason, the colors on the cylinder side are different.

Either way it is better to wire it to the ECU side so that if you ever have to swap out the ignition, like I am going to have to do, you don't have to re-wire the alarm system at all.
 
heym what do you guys have the microwave sensor set to? v-tec and i installed my alarm last night, and parked outside today it wouldnt shut up i ended up unplugging the microwave sensor box.
Mine is on the lowest setting (hard counter clockwise I believe).
 
I found the below in the kawi forum, what do u think?could this work for our bike too?

I have the same alarm in my fitting instructions it says.
"1 find the fuse box.
2 Start the engine and remove the Ingnition fuse. If this is the correct fuse the engine will cut out.
3 With the Fuse out and the key still in the on position, test the wires either side of the removed fuse.
4 Connect the Brown and pink on the live side and the grey wire on the Dead side.
LEAVE THE FUSE OUT!!!
It's unnecessary. I got the immobilizer to work with the instructions earlier in the thread. Outside of that, you could try it I suppose. It should work since all you're doing is creating a circuit outside of the fuse box.