Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner
21 - 40 of 42 Posts
So is it 0.001" more than the tolerance allows or 0.001" out from the nominal?
 
So is it 0.001" more than the tolerance allows or 0.001" out from the nominal?
.001 out of tolerance...it was .006 clearance instead of the nominal .008

I changed the shim anyway - i was already that far into the bike I might as well have.

Waiting on throttle cables in the mail before i can see if I successfully put the bike back together without bending a valve from misaligned cams :crackup:
 
Good call. If it had have been in the tolerance I wouldn't have worried about it but once it's out... time to do something about it.

What did you shim it back to? I would have gone back to 0.008 - 0.009...
 
kick arse write up... seems like the link to cbrworld.net isnt working on the work computers, but i stumbled on this write up!! saved me lots of money here. good detailed pics and tips. thanks!
 
Good call. If it had have been in the tolerance I wouldn't have worried about it but once it's out... time to do something about it.

What did you shim it back to? I would have gone back to 0.008 - 0.009...
I shimmed it back to .008 - just 1 shim size difference.

Kind of disappointed after all that work only 1 shim was off though after 33k miles :crackup:
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Well at least now people know how long they can ride before doing this.

The cbr forum link doesn't work but within Moeman's post, someone copied and pasted it in the thread. Should be in the same link toward the bottom.
 
hey guys, if my clearances on my inlet valve are just within spec, is it worth doing the shims anyways?

my inlets are reading 0.18mm, specs say 0.20mm +/- 0.03mm

my exhaust are reading 0.20mm, specs say 0.28mm +/- 0.03mm, since i'm going to be doing my exhaust shims, should i just do the inlets since i have to rip out all the cam stuff?
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
If you're going to replace it mind as well get everything within spec. If it still is, then you don't need to. It's really your call. If mine were to sit at the border line, I would rather have it sit right at the middle of the spec. It will make you happy as well as the bike.
 
Thanks dreamboyz, one more question though, if all my feeler gauge readings are the same

inlets are .18mm and exhaust are .20mm, would that in turn mean that i would need one sized shim for all the inlets and one sized shim for all the exhaust?

i was thinking of buying the shim kit, but if the above is the case, it's probably not worth it for me as i'll still need extra shims or have too much...
 
Thanks dreamboyz, one more question though, if all my feeler gauge readings are the same

inlets are .18mm and exhaust are .20mm, would that in turn mean that i would need one sized shim for all the inlets and one sized shim for all the exhaust?

i was thinking of buying the shim kit, but if the above is the case, it's probably not worth it for me as i'll still need extra shims or have too much...
It's extremely HIGHLY very unlikely that every single one of your intake valves AND exhaust valves are out of spec to the SAME EXACT DEGREE!?

The only way I could see this as even being feasible is if your bike is COMPLETELY stock and every single instance of ignition was uniform over the entire life of the bike. Meaning same temps, fuel, spark, ignition etc. There's just no way that this is possible.

I dont know, maybe I'm wrong...?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I agree with LDN. It's very unlikely. Maybe when you take the readings, you wanted them all to be the same? :)

I wouldn't buy the kit. The site in my post lets you order the size in quantity. Perhaps you should customize your own kit? Like 4 x 195, 5 x 200, and so on.
 
Just double checked the spec for 07+ machines.

Your intake are still in spec if you did in fact measure them properly. They will indeed need to be adjusted soon though so while you're in there you might as well have at it. I would measure them again, measure twice, cut once.

Intake: .17mm to .23mm (.007in to .008in)
Exhaust: .25mm to .31mm (.010in to .012in)
 
when i used the feeler gauge, it was the most comfortable feeler thing that fit.
my feeler gauge has the following sizes 0.18, 0.20, 0.23, 0.25, 0.28
too late to recheck now, as i've removed the cam holders already

i did half arse of a recheck and found that cyclinders 1 and 3 and 2 and 4 read the same, so i thought stuff it and just continued on to next step.

LDN it's an 05, so specs are slightly different.
 
To start with, are you sure your feeler gauges are correct? 0.2 is a long long way out on the exhaust. If you're using multiple feelers even the oil film and even worse, grit, can make a significant difference to the measured clearance.

To work out what your new shims need to be you need to work out which way they need to go (more or less clearance - will almost always be more) and by how much then take that off the thickness of the shim that's currently installed.
 
When it comes to measuring it's always best if you have the absolute best and most accurate tools you can get, that way you know exactly what the measurements are.

It's never too late. Put it back together and measure right. It would suck to do an adjustment and put your clearances even further out of spec than they were to begin with.

I think you need to find yourself a better set of feelers and take some more accurate readings. A .02 gap between gauges is pretty big especially f you only need to move your shim up or down by .01 to put it back center-spec.

To figure out your new shim sizes use your center spec and take the difference from your measurement then add that number to your current shim. Or if you're on the other end of the spectrum, subtract.

I actually like in using inches when doing valves. The manual has a more finite value for inches. I.e. .008 +- .001.
 
Since cbrworld is nonexistent and this one has broken pictures.... Does anyone have another thread with working pictures?
 
21 - 40 of 42 Posts