[Nico]

Here you go mate.

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?p=3262595

 

[RespectTheBike]

this maintenance makes me want to sell my bike before it hits 16k and buy something with low miles to avoid this damn headache. too much money to have a shop do it, too much time and room for error to do yourself.

with 800 bucks i could put that towards a new 06+ r6 with really low miles.

 

[TheX]

this maintenance makes me want to sell my bike before it hits 16k and buy something with low miles to avoid this damn headache. too much money to have a shop do it, too much time and room for error to do yourself.

with 800 bucks i could put that towards a new 06+ r6 with really low miles.

Probably best that you buy another bike then, nothing wrong with that at all.

 

[lownslo600]

this maintenance makes me want to sell my bike before it hits 16k and buy something with low miles to avoid this damn headache. too much money to have a shop do it, too much time and room for error to do yourself.

with 800 bucks i could put that towards a new 06+ r6 with really low miles.

They want $800 for valves? I got mine done for like ~$425. Now I took it to a guy here who has a race shop...not the dealer. But I will tell you I have an 05 and I got charged extra just for my year. He said the way the motor was in the bike in that model made it more work to check stuff. Got him to put new plugs in to since he would have mine out anyway.

 

[RespectTheBike]

Probably best that you buy another bike then, nothing wrong with that at all.

yea i kinda want to upgrade from the 03 anyways, plus some electrical issues are getting old.

They want $800 for valves? I got mine done for like ~$425. Now I took it to a guy here who has a race shop...not the dealer. But I will tell you I have an 05 and I got charged extra just for my year. He said the way the motor was in the bike in that model made it more work to check stuff. Got him to put new plugs in to since he would have mine out anyway.

yea thats what my buddy that works on kawis told me, i havent looked into it that much but bike places here are outrageous!

 

[aslcbr600]

Thanks for posting this!

 

[fonix36]

Cool. Now if only I.knew what I was doing.

 

[launchforwards]

Awesome write up. I'll be doing this soonish before next season starts!

 

[akoelling4]

Does the link no longer work? Is there an updated link? I would really like to know how to do this, my bike has 17,000 and its about time for a check! Thanks guys.

 

[dreamzboy]

The link doesn't work but if you actually read the thread, it's posted in the comments.

 

[akoelling4]

I apologize, you are right and I didn't read it. I appreciate your help!

 

[syl2us]

Turn the CKP (crankshaft position) sensor rotor (F) such that the "T" mark (G) is aligned with the index mark (H) on the crankcase.

When the CKP is in this position, the index line on the CKP (I in the above pic) will line up with a "notch" inside the crankcase (J). This notch is not visible when looking at the timing hole head-on. We will make use of this notch soon.

This will place timing marks, IN and EX, on the cam sprockets flush with the cylinder head casing surface. The timing marks should be facing outward (as pictured below). If they are facing inward, then turn the CKP 360 degrees (i.e. 1 full turn).

During this step in alignment of the markings: I presume it is more important to get the In/Ex markings flush with the casing as opposed to the T-mark dead on with the index notch correct? Mine seem to be a little off, when aligning the T mark the In/Ex markings are not parallel to the surface of the casing. When I make those parallel with the casing the T-mark is not in line with the index notch... So which is it?

Thx!

 

[Nico]

How far out is it? Did you remove the CCT while you did the adjustment?

You may have a worn cam chain, cam chain tensioner and or cam chain guides.

 

[dreamzboy]

I ran into the same issue when I did my bike a while back but thought it's by design. Well I don't have to deal with that for another 30Kmi.

 

[syl2us]

How far out is it? Did you remove the CCT while you did the adjustment?

You may have a worn cam chain, cam chain tensioner and or cam chain guides.

See pictures, first set of 3 is aligned with in/ex markings flush with the t-mark off. Second set of 3 is vice versa. I tried keeping the pics from all the same angles. Phone app only lets me upload 5 pics... But you can see in the second set the ex making is not level. Shadow being casted by casing is in line with it.

I have not removed the cct as the manual and diy have not mentioned to do so.

I know this is kind of being anal, but I'd like to confirm whichever position is most important to ensure accurate measurements of the clearances.

 

[syl2us]

Here's the other pic, sorry to double post.

I ran into the same issue when I did my bike a while back but thought it's by design. Well I don't have to deal with that for another 30Kmi.

So which did you go with? in/ex?

 

[Nico]

For measurement of the clearances make sure that the in/ex marks a parallel to the case.

It looks like you have a worn cam chain and cam chain guides there mate.

 

[syl2us]

For measurement of the clearances make sure that the in/ex marks a parallel to the case.

It looks like you have a worn cam chain and cam chain guides there mate.

not what I wanted to hear :/ is it possible the cct isn't providing proper tension, maybe got locked up, and a reset may do the trick?

 

[Nico]

Yes, but highly unlikely. You'd have heard the cam chain making a whole heap of noise if that were the case.

It's kinda hard to see in those pictures, with the crank aligned at TDC (not line line with the T, but in line with the mark next to it) is the EX mark parallel to the case and the IN slightly out?

Just looking at those pics again it almost looks like the intake cam is out by a tooth.

 

[syl2us]

Yes, but highly unlikely. You'd have heard the cam chain making a whole heap of noise if that were the case.

It's kinda hard to see in those pictures, with the crank aligned at TDC (not line line with the T, but in line with the mark next to it) is the EX mark parallel to the case and the IN slightly out?

Just looking at those pics again it almost looks like the intake cam is out by a tooth.

In and out are parallel. T mark does not line up with notch. Making it difficult to align the I mark "facing up" as the manual says for accurate exhaust measurements.

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